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View Full Version : 80 control arm?


nuclearlemon
10-10-2008, 04:54 PM
first off, i'm guessing the rear control arm bolt isn't supposed to be shouldered, am i correct?

reason i pulled it is i get a hideous "oh crap my front end is going to fall off " clunk when i hit deep cracks/bumps in the road. first thought was maybe i didn't get my spindles tight enough when i rebuilt the front end, so i jacked up the front end and tried to wiggle the tires. they were fine.

then i crawled underneath and tried to wiggle track rod, sway bar, and the welded rod that goes across to where the track rod is bolted and they were tight, so i guessed the control arm bushings might be bad so i pulled one side. they look fine (rear is a little dry rotted, but not torn or anything. how do they look to you gurus?

also, in an attempt to fix the leaks on the ford, i replaced two questionable hoses under the turbo intake and when i pulled the intake, i found this written on the hump hoses. if you need to know where to position the clamps, you should take your rig to a shop:rolleyes:

Hulk
10-10-2008, 05:11 PM
I think I'd replace the back bushings -- looks like crap. I thought all the bolts were shouldered.

Nay
10-11-2008, 12:05 AM
Bolt looks good, it's probably the OME bushings, those things don't hold up well to serious wheeling.

Beater
10-11-2008, 09:35 AM
yep. your eyes will not be able to detect the slop that will make noise in a urethane bushing. bolts are shouldered. re-place them all, should take about 3 hours, with the right press tools and a HF press. Also check the panhard bushing. often overlooked, and will klunk on both load and unload, as it is stressed heavily on flex.


Does anyone remember who I gave my kustom press tools too????

I must say this is my LEAST favorite automotive job ever. worse than doing a tranny on your back, or a tranny service on a rover. (2.5 hour book job WITH a porta-power)

j

Hulk
10-11-2008, 01:42 PM
On the front, the nuts have splines on the back side. On the back, the splines are on the shoulder of the bolt. Not sure about the back one, but the front ones should be replaced when you are doing service -- otherwise they will loosen just from daily driving.

nuclearlemon
10-11-2008, 04:10 PM
I think I'd replace the back bushings -- looks like crap. I thought all the bolts were shouldered.

i'm referring to the smaller shoulder up near the top.

nuclearlemon
10-11-2008, 04:11 PM
Bolt looks good, it's probably the OME bushings, those things don't hold up well to serious wheeling.

how do you tell if they're worn

Beater
10-11-2008, 04:31 PM
bulging, looseness of the inner shell, both on the bolt and or urethane side. IMHO, urethane only ever lasts about 2-3 years if you wheel them. They do come out REAL easy though.

Bikeman
10-11-2008, 06:00 PM
I would replace the bushings with slee's blue polyester bushings. They should last longer than the urethane, and replace the back one with factories.

FWIW, I have had 3 sets of control arms on my truck, and have never had the bolts loosen up when torqued properly.

Beater
10-12-2008, 08:49 AM
blue loc-tite. nuff said

rtv works also, but not as well.

nuclearlemon
10-12-2008, 12:31 PM
I would replace the bushings with slee's blue polyester bushings. They should last longer than the urethane, and replace the back one with factories.
.

financially, that's not an option.

Bikeman
10-12-2008, 02:12 PM
Then how about getting a set of control arms used like I did from Oleg, which would be cheaper than the cost of new bushings but you would lose your caster correction?

nuclearlemon
10-12-2008, 10:25 PM
any purchases are pretty much not an option.

i have another set of used bushings, but i don't see anything wrong here. i've tried yanking on the panhard to see if there's movement there, none.

can't get the other control arm down...in true "my life with cruisers" fashion, one bolt is holding me up...the middle bolt appears to have rusted itself into the sleeve. the nut came right off, but even with a bar, i couldn't get the bolt to budge:rolleyes:

Beater
10-13-2008, 08:03 AM
ige -

I chased a clunk for almost a year. Finally just put an impact on the panhard up front and in the back, and the clunk went away. There was no noticeable play on mine either.

just sayin

j

Nay
10-13-2008, 01:25 PM
Yep, panhards will clunk first.

Ige, you can tell tell if your bushings are bad by determining if they are OME :lmao:

They "look" ok, FWIW. The 80 front end really likes to clunk, I'd check torque first for sure.

nuclearlemon
10-13-2008, 03:37 PM
will do...thanks for the options.

nuclearlemon
10-17-2008, 08:28 PM
ok, no way in hell the left control arm is coming down without severe mutilation of the center bolt. i've been soaking with kroil on a regular basis and i tried the 1/2" ratchet with 3' bar and the bolt won't even think of turning:eek:

fortunately, oleg called it; sway bar. yep...the links had just barely loosened at the frame. tightened them real good, threw my new shock on (just picked it up this morning) and all is good in the world again.

if you dont' believe how scary it sounded, loosen your sway bar nuts at the frame and hit a road with a bunch of cracks in it...sounds like both wheels are going to fall off:eek: