View Full Version : Oil Leak on 1985 Fj60 (Axle Rebuild Time and HAC Valve)
11-16-2008, 08:08 AM
Trying to figure out where my oil leak is coming from. From the location of the oil, it seems as though the filter is not properly seated, but when I wipe around the filter, there is no oil at the seat. I am attaching two pics, one looking down and one looking up.
Also, how do I know when the front axles need to be rebuilt--I'm hoping I can make it until the next wheel bearing packing party? I cleaned everything up and it looks good, nothing leaking anywhere but there are a lot of creaks, groans and pops as I drive. The suspension and shackles are are original, so not sure if the sounds are coming from the axles or the suspension.
Oh, and one more question on the HAC Valve. I pulled the lower unit apart and the filter is pretty much nothing more than dust. When looking on Specter's schematics, I did not see the filter as an option to buy. Any suggestions on what I can put in there to serve as a filter?
11-16-2008, 08:23 AM
Front axle rebuild is messy but not hard. Jump in. Good winter project and if you'll be driving this winter and using your 4WD, you want those knuckles working proper.
Hard to say where that oil is coming from, but looks like there's a lot on the front diff too. Smell like 90 wt? Might be coming from a leaking pinion seal and getting slung all over everything. If it's engine oil, probably from the oil pan seal. The bolts work themselves loose or the cork gasket is bad. (?)
I'm confusing the HAC with a VSV I think. Confusing FJ60 spaghetti. Pics?
11-16-2008, 08:58 AM
Yeah, I thought the same thing on the oil, but I think (but can't be certain) it is not from the front diff. I was having a hard time getting a good smell from the stuff and really can't tell?
On the HAC valve, here is a picture of it. It sits on the drivers side of the engine, along the fender wall.
11-16-2008, 09:05 AM
hard to tell where the oil is coming from. There is a drip on the bottom of the fuel pump so it could be the push rod cover or oil cooler.
11-16-2008, 09:07 AM
If it was diff lube you'd know from the aroma. Distinctly stinky stuff! The side cover (pushrod cover per Wes) is notorious for leaking and is in the same area.
11-16-2008, 09:47 AM
I agree with Crash and Wes. Just snug up those bolts on the side of the engine (but don't overtighten them - they are only M6!).
Then poke a light in the knuckles (square plug on top of knuckle housing) and make sure you can see grease. They need to be about 3/4 full. If the seals are not leaking (just post a pic of each steering knuckle) then IMO a rebuild can wait until you do not need 4x4 anymore (who knows when the snow will start flying). You can do it in a day with someone's help if nothing goes wrong (e.g. brake line gets cross-threaded and you have to wait to get one shipped to the dealer - BTDT) though.
Also, since you've never been in there all the way I would suggest replacing the knuckle (trunnion) bearings as well, something that's not typically done at the Wheel Bearing Packing Party because it adds significant time to the project.
If you do decide to go for it, buy a seal puller. Don't mess with a screwdriver or anything else. A seal puller is cheap and it will make your life a lot easier. I almost broke two fingers because I tried getting by with a screwdriver. Don't put yourself in the same position.
11-16-2008, 02:38 PM
Sorry for the ignorance, where is the pushrod cover located? I know where the oil cooler is, tighten those two big bolts?
Here are pics of both axles, I will remove the square headed bolts and fill with grease. The last pic is from the underside of the HAC valve. Its the old filter, basically nothing more than a pile of dust and dirt. I read somewhere that a basic sponge cut to fit will do to replace an old filter. Thoughts?
11-16-2008, 03:11 PM
the knuckles look pretty good to me. Probably better than mine ever did even after a rebuild :o
As far as the HAC filter, I doubt you will find a replacement. I think the best you will be able to do is find a complete HAC valve that is cleaner. I doubt your current one will have that much of an affect though.
11-16-2008, 08:45 PM
Looks like someone already did a knuckle service not too recently on it. I'd say you're good, just check to make sure there's enough grease in there (but not full, just between 2/3 and 3/4).
#48 on this page (http://www.sor.com/sor/cat034.tam?xax=17619&page%2Ectx=cat034%2Etam). It's the plate that covers the side of your engine, it has a dimple in it where the distributor cap sits in.
12-07-2008, 12:56 PM
So, thanks everyone for their suggestions. I've tightened the bolts on the side cover, replaced a few crush washers, replaced the oil pressure sending unit and am still leaking a lot.
Based on the process of elimination, I believe it may be the gaskets around my oil cooler. I've been researching this and have a few questions.
Question 1: How exactly does the oil cooler work? The hoses running in and out are coolant lines. In the schmatics, there is a hole in the bolts that bolt into the oil filter bracket--what do they do? I've never seen an open view of the oil cooler, so I am really curious what is happening inside there.
Question 2: how do you know if your oil cooler is going bad? If there seems to be leaking oil from the bolt (see the blue arrows) my thought is to replace the gaskets (see red arrows) and perhaps the bolts. But how do you know if the oil cooler is done?
Question 3: I think my next steps in this ongoing saga are to replace the bolts and gaskets mentioned above? Any other thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts and suggestions.
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