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View Full Version : Knuckle bolt loose but in place.


Romer
11-17-2008, 09:14 AM
I checked my steering arm/knuckle bolts torque to make sure everything is good. All are good except one, which I can keep cranking on and never stops. e.g. the bolt is spinning. I can back the nut off, no problem. I can put the nut back on and it will go back to the same spot before the whole assembly starts moving.

I carry extra bolt, cone washers, washer and nuts.

With the steering arm on I could not get vice grips in enought to get the bolt off. I am also concened that I may not be able to get the bolt out and then cant get the nut back on.

Was thinking if I tack welded the nut to the bolt I should be able to get the whole assembly out.

I have fresh bolts to put in, but would that have the same problem?

Since 3 are torqued properly and the one with the issue is tight and the bolt wont come out, I am reluctant to try something that might make it worse and then have to tear that whole axle side down again.

Is my current situation safe? Wondering is the 3 torques bolts keep the arm in place (up/dn) while all 4 bolts maintain the proper side to side mechanical interface.

Would a fresh bolt likely have this problem?

Looking for experiances to decide whether to leave it for now, do the tach weld idea and replace the bolt or figure another tear down in my future.

timmbuck2
11-17-2008, 09:56 AM
I would guess the hole is stripped...can't see any other reason the bolt would keep spinning....

I ran for a week with 3 bolts torqued down and 1 bolt missing. Everything felt good, but I did take it easy.

Nay
11-17-2008, 10:50 AM
I would agree that if it is spinning once the nut is fully in place that your threads are stripped in the knuckle.

If you have enough room, put a second nut on the stud and then wrench off the top nut to remove it. I just put on new two new studs and there was room to do the "double nut" approach.

I just had two studs back out completely on the driver's side (hence the new ones :hill:) and was wheeling OCG with at least one missing and the rest at least loose, so I don't think it's a crisis for road use right now, personally.

Anyway, back the old one off however you can do it and diagnose the problem. From there you'll have to see if the knuckle itself is wrecked. That would suck :(

leiniesred
11-17-2008, 10:57 AM
Romer: sure, weld the nut on and crank it out. It certainly isn't "right." (even for my standards)

I'm going to guess it is the NUT or the threads on the stud, not the threads in the knuckle. That is why it goes on to a certain point, then just spins.

Good time to switch to ARP knuckle studs, eh?

Romer
11-17-2008, 11:06 AM
What are ARP Studs? never heard of them. I have a full set of OEM studs

Thanks for the input guys

Red_Chili
11-17-2008, 11:40 AM
ARP studs are the shiz, and can be torqued to higher values (thus clamping the steering arm more effectively, and not loosening, both of which can lead to broken studs and a meet-G*D moment :eek:). I would not agree that 3 of 4 is not a concern, but I am probably on the opposite end of the scale from Spanky.
:lmao:

leiniesred
11-17-2008, 02:18 PM
Brian sells 'em.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=44&osCsid=d3bbcd9f5cc9098f0f5bdda2cde32d1c

So does trail-mart (sic) 220,000 PSI.
http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm?fa=products&prodcategoryid=55#prodlineid150

bigbluefj
11-17-2008, 07:06 PM
Don't mess with the wheel stud's take it apart fix it right and you'll be happy tust me i know what happen's with bad stud's...

timmbuck2
11-17-2008, 07:10 PM
I guess I would get that stud out and see if your spare stud will fit with no slippage. I do have a few new ones also if you need new hardware. If the new stud also spins, then I guess you need to tear it apart and try and redo the threads. Fun. That's what I did 2 weeks ago! :)

T

Red_Chili
11-18-2008, 11:06 AM
Brian sells 'em.

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfoscomm/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=26&products_id=44&osCsid=d3bbcd9f5cc9098f0f5bdda2cde32d1c

So does trail-mart (sic) 220,000 PSI.
http://www.trail-gear.ca/default.cfm?fa=products&prodcategoryid=55#prodlineid150

Talked to Brian about Trail-Mart's comparative testing. He told me they didn't torque the FRORF studs to spec, but they did theirs. Then they tested them, and voila! They won.

I bought Brian's.

Nay
11-18-2008, 12:13 PM
Is the socket for the factory torx studs the "E10"? As in "external #10"?

Edit: It's an E12, but apparently you can get by with a 9mm 12 point socket.

leiniesred
11-19-2008, 08:39 AM
I got Brian's because he's a Colorado vender.
Also, I don't think trail-mart was selling 'em at the time I got mine.

I also have ARP hub studs.

Uncle Ben
11-19-2008, 08:57 AM
I got Brian's because he's a Colorado vender.
Also, I don't think trail-mart was selling 'em at the time I got mine.

I also have ARP hub studs.

I also bough from Brian because he a great dude and he's not Chris Geiger! :thumb::thumb:

Romer
11-20-2008, 07:21 PM
Went over to Olegs because I wasn't able to get the bolt out without disassembly.

Turns out only the bolts were stripped and there was a second one that Oleg thought had an issue that needed replacing. The mangling on the bottom of the right one is from working the bolts off and on.

Oleg thinks I may have torques them too much.

The new OEM studs look much beefier. Put two in with the red loc-tite and I am golden

Thanks Oleg

bigbluefj
11-20-2008, 07:29 PM
Wow we can say fubar for sure, good thing you caugth it before it was to late!!!

Romer
11-20-2008, 07:56 PM
Most of the damage on the right was caused by the nut and multiple nuts I tried and then finagling to try and get it off.

I was very lucky that the knuckle was fine. I like the new OEM studs. I need to get an E12 socket now. woohooo a new tool

bigbluefj
11-20-2008, 08:20 PM
New Tool Party :Princess::beer::Princess::beer::thumb::thumb::thumb::D:D

Jenny Cruiser
11-20-2008, 08:42 PM
I put those new studs on three of my other 80s and plan on doing the same soon on the LX. They make torqueing them a cinch. I'm surprised you didn't already have those.:D

sleeoffroad
11-21-2008, 07:29 AM
IF those are the studs that came out, then you have an issue with the knuckle. Those threads (other than the part where you say the nuts screwed it up) look fine. Did you pull the arm to check the knuckle. I have seen plenty of them stripped.

Romer
11-21-2008, 07:43 AM
IF those are the studs that came out, then you have an issue with the knuckle. Those threads (other than the part where you say the nuts screwed it up) look fine. Did you pull the arm to check the knuckle. I have seen plenty of them stripped.

Now you give input:rolleyes:

I took it to Oleg's and he worked on while I was at work. He said the knuckle checked out and the problem I was having was from the threads were the nuts were and the nut was spinning and not the bolt.

leiniesred
11-21-2008, 08:17 AM
Ahem! Who said it would be the nut/stud and NOT the knuckle?

That's right, a MINITRUCK guy. Glad it was just the stud/nut, Romer!

Keep 'em tight.
-Stephen

sleeoffroad
11-21-2008, 09:46 AM
Now you give input:rolleyes:

I took it to Oleg's and he worked on while I was at work. He said the knuckle checked out and the problem I was having was from the threads were the nuts were and the nut was spinning and not the bolt.

I thought you said you screwed up the threads on that side of the stud trying to get the nut off?

Most of the damage on the right was caused by the nut and multiple nuts I tried and then finagling to try and get it off.

Romer
11-21-2008, 09:50 AM
I thought you said you screwed up the threads on that side of the stud trying to get the nut off?

I said the mangling was from working them off and on. The threads still had an issue on the nut end or I wouldn't have had to mangle to get them off