PDA

View Full Version : '91 minitruck rear brakes


subzali
01-09-2009, 04:26 PM
took a look-see at my rear brakes today and boy they need new shoes bad! How do I go about setting the adjuster back to "0" when I put the new shoes on?

Anything else I need to pay attention to while I'm back there? This is my first time into the rear brakes of this truck...could be the first time they've ever been touched.

DaveInDenver
01-09-2009, 04:43 PM
You apparently got the drum off, that's the PITA, getting the adjuster backed off to get the drum off. As an aside, this is why Toyota drums rock and a lot of the after market drums stink (not all, just the ones I've seen), those two threaded holes for the bolts to pop drums off. Brilliant!

I pull the brakes apart without spinning the adjuster back, then take the adjuster out, clean it out (all the brake dust mixed with grease makes a nice paste on the threads) and reassemble. I use regular brake grease and a good coat to seal the works. I feel you need to grease to keep them from freezing from rust or water, so it's a necessary devil. Just make sure that you are gentle with the little metal tab so that you don't bend it too much and make it ineffective. Do one side at a time, IIRC the adjusters are not the same (one is left hand threaded I think).

I uploaded the section from the FSM on the rears, both 4WD and the two 2WD types.

Replace the springs, wave washers and C-clips. I would not disassemble the bell cranks if they are in good shape, but you can rebuild them with new pins if they are particularly sloppy. NAPA sells a kit that includes most of the mandatory hardware and it's a decent minimum. Burt usually has all the bits, but Toyota in it's infinite wisdom does not sell a kit. They sell a master engine seal kit, but not brake hardware kit. :rolleyes: You should not need to replace the adjuster, parking brake cables or anything. But basically drum brakes are drum brakes like they've been for 60 years, most of the same stuff as your FJ40 with the modernization of self adjusters. There are just drums, shoes, pivots, adjusters, wheel cylinders, just go slow when you take it apart. You will cuss when you try to get the locking washer on the pin that holds the spring on the shoes against the backing plate. So get an extra couple to replace the ones you mangle or throw across the garage.

Oh, yeah, you can adjust them all the way in because the Hilux brakes self adjust each time you pull the parking brake or step on the brakes rolling backwards. So the first time you step on the brakes, the pedal will go to the floor. Pull the brake handle a bunch of times until you start feeling resistance. The shoes will set for a few miles more as the high spots wear in to the drums, so you'll need to do the parking brake pull thing a couple of times more.

subzali
01-09-2009, 05:04 PM
I didn't have to do anything to get the drums off, just make sure the e-brake was not pulled in the cab and I used the two threaded holes to push the drums off.

subzali
01-11-2009, 11:38 AM
Well I got a shiver up my spine as I was working on these today. I think I'm going to take it to a professional, I just don't trust myself anymore to do a correct job on this, at least not with my DD. Turns out the shoes I got were for the wrong application anyway, have to take them back to Burt, so might as well have it done right by someone else.

Turns out I'm not really a mechanic, so I think this will be a trend for me, kinda backing off of a lot of this stuff and letting a professional take care of it. It's really in my best interest and in the interest of the safety of those around me.

MDH33
01-11-2009, 12:09 PM
I did the rear brakes on my '82 when I picked it up because the bell cranks were rusted and sticking (I would rebuild and lube them). The whole process, including disassembling the bell cranks, replacing shoes, cleaning everything, reassembly and adjusting took an afternoon.

As a side note, the last time I had a shop do the brakes on one of my rigs, they screwed the job up and I ended up having to buy new drums and doing the job over. I would rather do things myself (within my abilities) and know it's done right rather than pay extra for someone else to do it and wonder if it was done right. ;)

Uncle Ben
01-11-2009, 01:05 PM
I am a firm believer that if you wheel your truck you need to know how to work on your truck. The brakes on your mini truck are less complicated than your 40 as there is only one wheel cylinder per wheel to deal with. I know the self adjusters can be a PITA but they really are easy and if you just pay attention to how things are attached when removing it it doesn't take much brain power to reassemble. Matt, you are very capable and very handy with a wrench! Don't over think the job just get it done!

DaveInDenver
01-11-2009, 01:11 PM
Echo the other guys. You can do this, Matt. It's all right there in the FSM pages, take your time on the one side and the other will be a snap. I understand the worry about brakes, but if there is one thing that I'd prefer to do myself it's brakes.

Squishy!
01-11-2009, 08:11 PM
...I think I'm going to take it to a professional...

Hey! I'm a professional!

Squishy!
01-11-2009, 08:12 PM
Ooo...Better clarify, professional TECHNICIAN. (That was way too open)

farnhamstj
01-11-2009, 08:47 PM
I had a quick flash to Ferris Bueller's vallet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MxPoxxt7n0 6 minutes in. "you have nothing to worry about, I'm a professional"

Don't stress Matt. Even I feel like I can handle brakes. My wife to the bosses Tourag to the dealer for an oil change. It took them a week and a 100 miles of driving (by us in two cars), in each direction to get there. Later that night there was a puddle of oil under the car. They forgot to tighten the drain plug.

subzali
01-11-2009, 11:56 PM
Yeah I don't know, I redid the brakes on the '66 Chevy and I've gone through them several times in my FJ40, but for some reason I got spooked with these. I think it was the fact that I don't have an FSM and the shoes that I got from Burt were the wrong ones, just two things that didn't have my jiving in the right direction. I have about 1mm left on the shoes in spots, and I'm usually pretty light on the brakes so I have time to decide what I really want to do. If I give myself more time I would feel better about it too.

DaveInDenver
01-12-2009, 05:33 AM
Yeah I don't know, I redid the brakes on the '66 Chevy and I've gone through them several times in my FJ40, but for some reason I got spooked with these. I think it was the fact that I don't have an FSM and the shoes that I got from Burt were the wrong ones, just two things that didn't have my jiving in the right direction. I have about 1mm left on the shoes in spots, and I'm usually pretty light on the brakes so I have time to decide what I really want to do. If I give myself more time I would feel better about it too.
You can do it! Wrong shoes, that just happens, don't use it as an excuse to give up. I heard a saying that I sorta like; a smooth mountain is impossible to climb.

It really not tough since you R&R and there is no adjusting between two cylinders to do. There's a few more parts, but you don't have to deal with the little brake tool to get the shoes set right, the self adjuster makes Hilux brakes 1/10th as hard as old Cruiser IMHO.

The complete FSM for a 1993 is uploaded on our FTP server or you can see it at TTORA (http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/). If you want to see the actual 1991, I have them, too (they're the same as the electronic ones). Up to you.

Red_Chili
01-12-2009, 08:35 AM
Matt can do it,
he's our man.
If he can't do it,










he will become poor in short order.

Red_Chili
01-12-2009, 08:37 AM
OBTW, Squishy is also a good teacher... learn once, save many.

subzali
01-23-2009, 04:09 PM
Today a new set of shoes came in at the dealership, along with shiny new manuals.

Since I've been in there once, was planning on giving myself plenty of time today, and had the manual and went step by step I got 'er done. Yep, pretty much nothing more exciting than self-adjusting drum brakes. Pretty easy job, I just got spooked for some reason the first time but I've seemed to have gotten my confidence back.

And for good measure I Rain-X'd the windshield today too :)

BTW I tried to figure out the differential ratio (didn't see it in the FSM), it looks to be about 1.75:1; that is the driveshaft spins about 1.75 times for each wheel revolution. Does that sound right? Does anybody know if I can find out for sure? And I'm curious too about my transmission ratios too. Pretty low, but it's meant for the highway so I guess that makes sense. Pretty funny though, considering the Cruiser is 4.11:1 :)

RicardoJM
01-23-2009, 04:14 PM
Excellent!!!

MDH33
01-23-2009, 04:32 PM
Excellent!!!

http://mdhuber.smugmug.com/photos/460320917_vQB6s-S.jpg

Nice job Matt. :thumb:

DaveInDenver
01-23-2009, 05:00 PM
Nice job!

That 1.75:1 ratio is not right, I'd have guessed about 3.36 or so. The 4.10:1 is extremely common in 4WD trucks, with 4.30, 4.56, 4.88 being other typical factory options. In 2WD I dunno common ones, but it's not 1.75 I'm pretty sure.

Decode your build plate to know for sure.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks4x4/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=274535

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ToyVIN.shtml

subzali
08-13-2009, 06:25 PM
I found out today that with one wheel off the ground the revolutions of my driveshaft are only have of what the differential ratio is. So it should be around 3.5 (I guess 3.3 or 3.36 according to your website links Dave).

I'm glad I can sleep about this topic now ;)