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View Full Version : Swing-Away Tire Carrier - Not Swinging!!


LARGEONE
01-13-2009, 11:10 PM
When I purchased my 80 from PO, the rear tire carrier was already very unhappy about opening. It was obvious the bearings were dry and shot (probably because the TJM spindle doesn't have a grease fitting). After much pounding and beating with a sledge hammer, I finally got the spindle to come apart and the arm off the bumper. However, the bearing races are stuck in the bumper sleeve and the other side is stuck on the spindle! I tried to pound the races out, but I think they are rusted to the inside of the bumper sleeve.

I also mushroomed the threads on the spindle a little since beating on the arm didn't even make it budge. I had to hit directly on the end of the shaft to get it out.

What to do? :confused:...

My choices at this point are these...

1) Try to get the races out of the bumper sleeve and off of the shaft, get the shaft threads repaired, and buy new bearings to fit the current spindle.

2) Have someone cut the old spindle out and weld in a new, higher quality spindle (maybe one that is easier to maintain).

Is anyone close to Broomfield that might be able to give me an opinion on how to proceed from here? Maybe someone who welds who can give me a perspective of how hard it would be to replace the spindle unit? I can drive it to your place to examine.

Thanks.

sleeoffroad
01-14-2009, 07:45 AM
You could just leave the races in there, clean then up with some scotchbrite pads and use a new bearing. Even if the races are pitted, it will be fine. It is not a high speed application. I might even have some of those bearings at the shop, but I would need to arm and bumper to match them. Ot email TJM in Australia for the bearing part numbers.

Groucho
01-14-2009, 08:08 AM
But I would try to fix before replacing. Anyone who has ever tried to maintain some sort of consistency with spindles and tire carriers knows that if it isn't set right, things don't work properly. My guess is the seal on the bottom of the hub was worn out or wrong, allowing moisture to be trapped inside and that is bad.

It looks like the spindle in thepicture is on a table, is that the case? I am assuming that it is just like Kaymar and Slee where the spindle is welded to the bumper and the hub is welded to the arm, am I not correct?

Either or, I would get those bearings off of the spindle. Take some emery paper (Home Depot SHOULD have this stuff, I know Ace does. It is sold in a roll about 1.5" wide) and shine the surfaces up on the spindle where the bearing will slide down onto it. Making sure that there is ample grease on the spindle. Originally, the spindle would have been zinc plated, and now that protective coating is completely gone. So you have to make up for it with grease.

Then, depending on how bad the races (or cups as some folks call them) are chewed up, leave them in the hub and shine them up as well with the emery paper. They don't have to be perfect, after all the purpose of the hub and spindle is just to allow the arm of the tire carrier to swing open maybe 100 and at a speed that is so slow that makes the setup total overkill. If the races just have a couple of small pits but the majority of the surface resembles a good working flat surface, do this. If they are as torn up as those bearings look, you will have to pound them out and that is not the most friendly task.

Then I would replace the bearings and the grease seal with the correct ones (Try Whistler Bearing off of I-70 if you need parts, they're open saturday and they will help you get the right stuff, which I would say they will have there in stock) and put them in. Then grease the hub like it was a wheel bearing, really packing the grease in there. Make sure the grease seal works well and cover it up tightly.

If you need to do more operating on it, I may have some home-brew tools used to push races in that may work. Getting the races out I just say use a brass drift, or cut them with a grinding wheel if you can get it in there.

I hope that helps, it sure sux when that happens.

*EDIT--Dang it all! Slee beat me!*

Uncle Ben
01-14-2009, 08:38 AM
Bearing numbers are stamped in the inner races that are stuck to your spindle. I would try some heat on the races after the bearing cage is removed and hopefully it will expand enough to come off with moderate encouragement. If you can get those numbers you can get new bearings! Whistle can probably come up with the seal too if you have all the exact measurements or again the number that is stamped on it.

If you don't have the tools or resources to proceed from here give me a shout.

LARGEONE
01-14-2009, 09:57 AM
.

It looks like the spindle in thepicture is on a table, is that the case? I am assuming that it is just like Kaymar and Slee where the spindle is welded to the bumper and the hub is welded to the arm, am I not correct?



Actually, I think this set-up is opposite. Most of the swing-aways I have seen have the shaft of the spindle welded to the bumber. This one has the bearings inside the bumper and the shaft connected to the swing arm. The nut on the spindle is under the bumper, and there was NO SEAL at all!

Thanks to the encouragement that this might not be a total loss!

As for the messed up threads...I just need to get the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch re-threaded to get the nut to start threading. The last half inch sticks out past the nut when it is tight anyway.

Uncle Ben
01-14-2009, 10:42 AM
Actually, I think this set-up is opposite. Most of the swing-aways I have seen have the shaft of the spindle welded to the bumber. This one has the bearings inside the bumper and the shaft connected to the swing arm. The nut on the spindle is under the bumper, and there was NO SEAL at all!

Thanks to the encouragement that this might not be a total loss!

As for the messed up threads...I just need to get the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch re-threaded to get the nut to start threading. The last half inch sticks out past the nut when it is tight anyway.

Cut the 'shroom off and thread chase the spindle. I think what you have it totally savable from what I see.

Rezarf
01-14-2009, 05:53 PM
Cut the 'shroom off and thread chase the spindle. I think what you have it totally savable from what I see.

I thought the same thing, just chop the top off and rethread the top... should be good to go. Have you tried soaking the bearings and races in penitrating oil? A few days of soak, a little heat and they might come off.

60wag
01-14-2009, 08:27 PM
Get the races hot and hit them with something heavy. They'll come off the spindle. Hopefully you can also get the outer races out of the bumper. A complete new bearing assembly will make it work right for the next ten years.

LARGEONE
01-15-2009, 05:37 PM
Do I just put the heat on the races? Will a propane torch (for sweating copper pipe) work for heat, or does it need to be something hotter?

I contacted TJM and these are the bearing numbers they gave me.

LM11910, LM11949 and LM67010, LM67048

I don't know anything about bearings...I assume there are separate part numbers for each side of both bearings? Will Whistler Bearing be able to take these numbers and get me what I need?

As for the races in the bumper...I'm going to start hitting it with "liquid wrench" (someone mentioned something better, but I can't remember the name) starting tonight and then when I get back from Portland next week, I'm going to try to get them out without making them unusable in case I'm unsuccessful.

Thanks to all for help! P

Mendocino
01-15-2009, 05:54 PM
Do you have a cut off wheel or a grinder? That can prove effective as well.

subzali
01-16-2009, 01:49 PM
pb blaster is well known for its penetrating qualities, and my guess is you may be able to get by with a propane torch. It's worth a try if that's what you already have. I was able to use just a propane torch to heat up my ring gear enough to slide it onto my differential carrier, so that might be enough to get the bearings off.

LARGEONE
01-22-2009, 11:42 PM
OK...just an update to my original thread.

I was able to get the bearings off the spindle by hitting the spindle with this FREEZE SPRAY from loctite.

Then, the end of the spindle was "mushroomed" so badly that the threads were actually narrowed and the nut wouldn't even come close to going back on. So, I borrowed a thread file from work, ground the mushroomed section down a little to reduce the diameter, then went to work on the threads. After about an hour of filing, the nut could barely be forced on with lubricating oil. So, I arranged to get a die to try to re-thread the spindle, but when I tried the nut the next day it went on with ease!!! All of the filing, grinding, and friction from forcing the nut on the spindle, heated both the spindle and nut so much that they both expanded, preventing the nut from going on. I was relieved that I wouldn't have to try to re-thread the spindle!

So, it's back together and swinging so much easier than when I bought the truck. I'm glad it's fixed.

I will probably try to add a grease zerk whenever I eventually have to take the bumper off for another reason. Until then, I'll just monitor performance and re-grease as necessary.

Thanks again for the help and advice from club members.

Paul

Rezarf
01-23-2009, 09:36 AM
Great job! Nice when everything actually works out the way you planned... wait, I have never had that happen before, how does it feel??