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View Full Version : FJ40 Bellhousing Swap


RicardoJM
01-26-2009, 08:51 AM
For those of you that have changed bellhousings, how did you go about doing the swap? All the bellhousing removal/swaps that I've been at were done with engines that are outside of the truck. It is a pretty straight forward affair with the engine out. I am particularly interested in hearing from those that have done the swap without removing the engine from the truck.

The guys I met at the junkyard called last week and I picked up the 2F bellhousing over the weekend. Timmbuck2 provided a 2F flywheel so I have in hand most of the parts to make the conversion from the J30 (3 speed) transmission to the H42 (4 speed) transmission and as I think through the work involved I'm interested in hearing how others have dealt with the bellhousing swap.

As background on the project. I will be replacing the rear main seal and oil pan gasket during the project. I will also be swapping out the flywheel and putting in a new diaphragm clutch kit. I will be keeping my 3 speed transfer case and keeping it vacuum activated. I intend to cut out the crossmember and weld on plates to make it removable. Having a removable crossmember will open up access for parking brake maintenance and/or clutch maintenance but also make it viable to do the swap from underneath.

Rzeppa's engine refresh thread and Coolerman's transmission swap threads have been very informative about the process. I'm sure I'll have a few other questions as I work through the project, but bellhousing approach is the one at the forefront right now.

Air Randy
01-26-2009, 08:57 AM
From what we saw yesterday, my guess is the important step is to support the rear of the engine so that when you remove the rear mounts and drop the bell housing out the engine doesn't rock back. With the bell housing and flywheel out it should be real easy to change the pan gasket and rear main seal.

If you have a hoist or some means of supporting it from the top via the rear lifting hook, that should leave it wide open underneath to work.

nuclearlemon
01-26-2009, 11:03 AM
come along under the oil pan, or a floor jack.

farnhamstj
01-26-2009, 03:22 PM
I have pulled the tranny and t-case on 78 fj40 without removing the bellhousing. I also replaced the rear main and clutch while at it. The bellhousing supports the rear of the motor. By the time you've gotten that much apart. I would get an engine hoist and just pull motor+tranny+t-case. disasemble. Reassemble with parts of your choice and stuff it back in. It is way easier to pull the motor than to stuff the tranny/t-case assembly back in from below. Sure you have to remove the radiator and bib and fenders but that's all easy compared to lying on your back trying to bench press the tranny and t-case back into place. Don't forget clearance to the ceiling. I pulled off my front wheels and lowered the front axle until the disc brakes were 1/2 inch from the floor.

MDH33
01-26-2009, 03:32 PM
...I would get an engine hoist and just pull motor+tranny+t-case. disasemble. Reassemble with parts of your choice and stuff it back in. ...

I'm thinking this sounds like a great idea. I'm planning on doing this swap soon too so I am probably going to invest in a cherry picker and load leveler.

:thumb:

Air Randy
01-26-2009, 04:08 PM
I think the answer as to which approach is easier is "it depends".

Ricardo has to remove his existing 3 spd bellhousing and replace it with a 4 spd version when he installs his 4 spd tranny. He helped me pull the engine/tran/tc out of a 40 as a unit yesterday so thats why he's asking the question now.

If you support the engine correctly (preferrably from the top so you have tons of space underneath) pulling the trans/tc alone is pretty easy. You can either rent a tranny jack and lower it from underneath or use a come along and do it from the top. If you have hard doors you can rig a support beam there or if you have a full cage hook it up there. You may need to get it up on jack stands for more space but thats not too difficult.

If you have to start removing frozen exhaust manifold bolts, breaking off studs and then dealing with intake and exhaust leaks after you put it back together, I would think twice about pulling the engine unless required.

nuclearlemon
01-26-2009, 04:35 PM
for trans/xfer, i always run cherry picker through the door. i do have a tranny jack if you need to borrow it. hit up cbmontgo, he used it to put his new tranny in and still has it at his place.

timmbuck2
01-26-2009, 04:38 PM
I'm thinking this sounds like a great idea. I'm planning on doing this swap soon too so I am probably going to invest in a cherry picker and load leveler.

:thumb:

I still have Drew's cherry picker, I am sure he would not mind if I passed it along. :)

T

Shark Bait
01-26-2009, 05:42 PM
Ricardo, I assume you have the T-case input gear that will fit on that H42 output shaft?

RicardoJM
01-26-2009, 06:47 PM
Ricardo, I assume you have the T-case input gear that will fit on that H42 output shaft?

Not yet. :o

I still need to source:
Transition gear, 29 tooth 16 spline input gear
1974-1982 Datsun B210 pickup truck rear axle bearing Part #RW114R
Pilot Bearing SKF #6202J
New Gaskets and Seals
Clutch Kit
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal


The H42 has the 4 speed transfer case still attached, so I will use the
PTO gear or gear spacer that is in there as well as the bolts to connect to the transmission.

Rzeppa
01-27-2009, 05:22 PM
Not yet. :o

I still need to source:
Transition gear, 29 tooth 16 spline input gear
1974-1982 Datsun B210 pickup truck rear axle bearing Part #RW114R
Pilot Bearing SKF #6202J
New Gaskets and Seals
Clutch Kit
Oil pan gasket
Rear main seal


The H42 has the 4 speed transfer case still attached, so I will use the
PTO gear or gear spacer that is in there as well as the bolts to connect to the transmission.

I got my gear from RS member and TLCA business member Joe Calleja at CTS in Aspen Park. I got my B210 bearing from NAPA. Gaskets and seals were all from Stevinson Toyota.

Since you read my write-up, no doubt you know about the spacer/washer/nut gotcha on the H42 output shaft. Since you'll be getting the H42 version of the t-case, you'll have the longer bolts for the H42. I have a couple spare rear main seals, I'll be happy to give you one for free.

*Important* you will also want a new T/O bearing! Unless it comes with your clutch kit, in which case it'll probably come with a new pilot bearing too.

You will need to decide which side to mount your clutch slave. I left mine on the 3 speed driver's side. If you mount it on the 4 speed passenger's side you'll have to make or obtain new clutch hydraulic lines. You'll also have to decide what to do about the t-case 4WD shift linkage. I lengthened my under-dash arrangement by cutting the 3 speed rod and welding in a 3.5" extension. I *think* you can swap in the 4 speed lever to your 3 speed t-case without too much trouble. Obviously you'll have to cut a corresponding hole in your tranny hump for the lever, and source the boot, and possibly the lever.

Other issues: There's a body crossmember you'll have to clearance if you retain the under-dash 4WD actuation. Probably more I'm not remembering as far as minor issues.

I will say emphatically that the biggest PITAs I have dealt with usually seem to involve stabbing the tranny input into the clutch. Getting everything lined up just right has always given me fits. Doing it while the engine is in the truck seems to be the hardest way to go. Happy cruisin'!

Rzeppa
01-27-2009, 05:28 PM
Oh one last thing, don't count on the H42 spacer (if it has one) or PTO gear to be the right length. You need to get everything mock assembled to make sure the input gear lines up with the idler.