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bigbluefj
04-17-2009, 11:45 PM
So who has done a rear disc break conversion on there fj40 how do you like it and who's set up did you use??

Kevin

Uncle Ben
04-18-2009, 12:13 AM
Your rear brakes broke? :eek::lmao::lmao:;)

daisydog34
04-18-2009, 12:13 AM
I just completed a disc brake conversion on a stock FJ40 axle using custom parts. I have seen quite a few kits out there, and I have never heard anything bad about any of them. I plasma cut mine on the cnc table and then milled the holes using the trusty bridgeport. I did this because I wanted to use these tools, not because you have to. Previously I have used a hand held plasma and a drill press and they turned out just as great.

The conversion is easier if you have a drive line ebrake of some kind, the parking brake calipers are not only expensive but it can be a major pita to rework the ebrake cable. I would also install a proportioning valve, and if you can a 1 inch master cylinder as the new calipers do use more fluid than the old drums. As far as the end result you will be amazed! The rig will actually stop in the rain and you will have better pedal feel all other times.

Air Randy
04-18-2009, 07:46 AM
I used the JT Outfitters kit. Took about 3 hours to install and works great. I also bought their disc brake master cylinder. If you decide to change the MC, make sure you neasure the length of the rod that goes into the vacuum booster from the face of the MC on the old setup. Measure it again once you put the rod into the new MC. It turns out mine was close to 3/4" longer than the original so I had issues with my brakes dragging until I cut that rod down.

Shark Bait
04-18-2009, 08:18 AM
The kit from TSM (http://www.tsmmfg.com/2490.htm) in Castle Rock, CO is the only kit I've ever used. You get brackets and rotors for $270. They also have calipers and lines. :D

nuclearlemon
04-18-2009, 08:26 AM
i used warn brackets, rotors from checker that i had turned out at a local machine shop, loaded calipers were from napa, rebuilt my master and removed the valves, bought a prop valve, but never did put it in. works great..love em.

Uncle Ben
04-18-2009, 11:22 AM
My "old" ones on the 40 axles were TJM's. If I did it again I would buy the same kit! Loaded calipers were NAPA.

Mendocino
04-18-2009, 11:54 AM
...If you decide to change the MC, make sure you neasure the length of the rod that goes into the vacuum booster from the face of the MC on the old setup. Measure it again once you put the rod into the new MC. It turns out mine was close to 3/4" longer than the original so I had issues with my brakes dragging until I cut that rod down.

This is sage advice. Make sure you follow this. Brake drag is, well, a drag!:eek:

bigbluefj
04-18-2009, 05:13 PM
This is great info i went with the BTB brake booster and master with proportioning valve redisual so i'm set up with all that great stuff to start off with, now i will take in this info and see what happen's thank's everyone..


Kevin

Mendocino
04-18-2009, 06:44 PM
This is great info i went with the BTB brake booster and master with proportioning valve redisual so i'm set up with all that great stuff to start off with, now i will take in this info and see what happen's thank's everyone..
Kevin

Watch the drag...

bigbluefj
04-18-2009, 08:22 PM
Watch the drag please explain??

Uncle Ben
04-18-2009, 10:26 PM
Watch the drag...

http://students.washington.edu/gaspee/images/Img60.jpg
:eek: :lmao::lmao:

bigbluefj
04-18-2009, 10:28 PM
:drool::drool::bolt::dunno::bill::bill:

Mendocino
04-19-2009, 08:34 AM
LOL! UB:eek:

Mendocino
04-19-2009, 09:22 AM
Watch the drag please explain??
If the rod between the pedal and the ms is too long it actuates the ms piston and creates brake drag. I added an 80 ms to my 40 and had this problem. A proportioning valve will not fix this; it changes the amount of braking force from front to rear. There is a lot of confusion about this and a lot written on Mud (check the signal to noise ratio).

I put my 40 on jack stands to make sure everything actually turned properly with no drag.

Uncle Ben
04-19-2009, 09:43 AM
If the rod between the pedal and the ms is too long it actuates the ms piston and creates brake drag. I added an 80 ms to my 40 and had this problem. A proportioning valve will not fix this; it changes the amount of braking force from front to rear. There is a lot of confusion about this and a lot written on Mud (check the signal to noise ratio).

I put my 40 on jack stands to make sure everything actually turned properly with no drag.

Actually, it's the rod between the MC and the booster that is not adjustable and has to be a specific length, the rod from the booster to the peddle is adjustable.

Mendocino
04-19-2009, 10:00 AM
Actually, it's the rod between the MC and the booster that is not adjustable and has to be a specific length, the rod from the booster to the peddle is adjustable.

Thanks, that's what I meant.