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Boulder Cruiser
04-27-2009, 05:12 PM
Before i did my put ps on the truck it would run hot on the highway but never in the city. I had a spare rad laying around cause the original was leaking, the second rad ended up leaking as well so i got one from Ige (3 core) it ended up leaking also. I bought some JB weld and fixed all the leaks and took it for a drive. It heated up almost immediately. When i stopped at a light (or just driving in the city) it would fly up to 210+ and when driving on the highway it would go back down to 200. Im sure if i continued to stay stopped the temp would keep going up. I checked the fan clutch two ways, i held it while the truck was being started and it didnt move. When the truck was heated up i turned the motor off and the fan spun freely. Got a new one and after an hour of destroying my arms i got it in. I just took it for a drive and its still heating up the same way. I check the NEW fan clutch and IT DOESN'T WORK EITHER :mad:
I just ordered a new thermostat and im going to return the fan clutch (after i get it out)

Here is my question, what am i doing wrong? How can you tell if the WP is bad? Is there a way to tell if the fan clutch is good before putting it in?
Im so sick of dealing with this.......

Boulder Cruiser
04-27-2009, 05:48 PM
Also there is a pretty annoying squeak now. I cant tell exactly where its coming from, i thought it was the hollowed smog pump so i took it off a lubed the inside but its still doing it. I guess it could be the WP but i cant pin point it.

RicardoJM
04-27-2009, 06:29 PM
Bummer - hopefully a new t-stat will do the trick.

Regarding the squeak, I don't think that you replaced the alternator, but in the past year I have put in two alternators (first when the one in my truck failed, the second just because) and each time I had a little bit of squeak for the first few hundred miles.

I've not ever heard of a new water pump squeaking.

subzali
04-27-2009, 08:31 PM
Can you immerse the fan clutch in hot water and see if it will engage? Is it sealed that well? Does the clutch come pre-filled with the silicone stuff?

60wag
04-27-2009, 08:57 PM
Is it a Toyota clutch or an aftermarket? I've heard horrible reviews of aftermarket ones.

Boulder Cruiser
04-27-2009, 10:43 PM
The alt has been rebuilt and its off a fj60. It doesn't really sound like its coming from there. Ill have to take a stethoscope to it.
I just wasnt sure if the WP makes noise when its going out.
The clutch is aftermarket, i called Toyota and they dont make it anymore :confused: I thought about putting it in some hot water but really dont want to take it out of the truck until im sure its not something else, its such a pain in the ass to get to it. Im hoping that the t-stat will fix it, if it doesn't im taking everything off again and replacing/inspecting everything.

60wag
04-28-2009, 06:28 AM
Have you checked the temp of the rad with an infrared thermometer? If the rad, the whole rad, is as hot as the block is then the tstat is likely wide open.

Boulder Cruiser
04-28-2009, 04:16 PM
I just put the new t-stat in (haven't drivin it yet). I checked the old one it opened and closed like it should so im thinking that the new t-stat isn't gonna do anything to fix it.

I haven't used a infrared thermometer, i don't know where to get one. Does auto zone, napa, etc. rent them out?

I was thinking, what if my gauge is off? I don't know for sure but i think that the prob is touching metal inside the head. Its alot longer than the factory temp gauge probe. Could that affect the temp reading? I have not had it boil over which brings me to my next question, What temp does a 50/50 mix boil at?

SteveH
04-28-2009, 06:35 PM
An infra-red point-and-shoot thermometer is very helpful at times like this to get real readings off the head, hoses, and radiator. Get a new radiator cap (13 lb, or whatever the right pressure is), too. I think the sensor touching metal wouldn't make a big diff., as the rest of the sensor is surrounded by coolant. Your antifreeze bottle typically gives you the boil temp of various mixtures (some do, anyway).

Boulder Cruiser
04-28-2009, 09:24 PM
Ok, new thermostat didn't do anything, i also got a new cap yesterday and it didnt help. Got on the highway and it slowly 210 i kept going and got it up to 220 then i pulled over and checked for boiling, nothing. Im 99% sure my fan clutch doesn't engage either. I can't hear or feel it turn on and it heats up real quick when its at a light.
Im gonna ask around and see if anyone rents out infrared thermometer's.
Thanks for the help guys:beer:

60wag
04-28-2009, 09:37 PM
I've got a thermometer you can borrow if you want. The problem is that I'm leaving for Moab before lunch tomorrow. Well, that's really not a "problem" but it doesn't help you much. I'll be in Gunbarrel in the morning, PM me if you want to pick up the thermometer.

If it does confirm that the rad is hot then the clutch is the likely culprit. You might see if there is a temporary way to jam/lock up the clutch for a test drive.

Boulder Cruiser
04-28-2009, 09:52 PM
Thanks for the offer and have fun in moab! I don't know if ill be around tomorrow, i have to go to co springs in the morning and dont know what time ill be back. Ive got a buddy that might have one. Worse case if i cant find one ill give you a call when you get back.

Boulder Cruiser
04-30-2009, 02:02 PM
Ok i put the new fan clutch in and i think it's working cause im not overheating in the city (185F). But i dont feel or hear it, from what ive read its pretty intesnse when it locks. I am still hitting 210+ on the highway. I dont know what else to do..... :banghead:

subzali
04-30-2009, 02:31 PM
how's your timing? vacuum advance?

SteveH
04-30-2009, 04:46 PM
Are you running a fan shroud? If not, install one.

It sounds like your fan clutch is working.

Does your temp drop a lot on the highway when you pull the heater knob and turn up the fan?

Is your lower radiator hose hot or cold to the touch?

My '78 2F ran hot on the freeway when the radiator was half-clogged. The extra horsepower needed for speed overtaxed the radiator. I got a new radiator last year thru Toyota (they bought it from Performance Radiator) and I think I paid $207.

If you're in the Springs, look me up (PM me) and we can aim my point-and-shoot thermometer at it and see what's going on.

Steve

Art Volmer
05-01-2009, 01:04 AM
I know Car Quest sells the thermometers they are around $70 and worth every penny. You may want to try to flush your coolant system if it is clogged it will improve its efficiency. Good luck, over heating problems can be a bear. Art

Beater
05-01-2009, 07:42 AM
this could also be a pump issue as well. I dont know much about 2f's but a bad impeller will cause your symptoms.

j

Boulder Cruiser
05-01-2009, 11:25 AM
This morning i popped the hood and i saw i had left the over flow cap off yesterday. I figured maybe with it off it wasn't pressurizing, i put it on and took it for short drive on the highway, it didn't heat up BUT i had the heat on and its misting out.


I haven't checked the timing yet. Ill try and do that today.

It does have the factory fan shroud. Dont know if the lower hose is hot or cold, haven't looked. What should it be, cold? If i could drive on the highway I'd come over :D

Ive Flushed the system twice and no gunk came out.

The WP is the only thing i haven't replaced, guess ill look into how much they are. I might as well start looking around for NEW radiator also.

Thanks for the suggestions guys! :beer:

SteveH
05-01-2009, 12:47 PM
In a perfect world, you'd see a big drop in temp across the input and output of both your heater core (with the heater on) and your radiator (with the thermostat open). This indicates that those devices are rejecting heat as designed. Put another way, if the temp in and out of the radiator is the same, then your radiator isn't doing anything. This glib statement does have to be tempered a bit by reality and system design, but it's basically true.

There's no practical way I know of to check water pump performance (impeller being rusted off) other than by pulling the pump and visually checking it. I rate this as a fairly low probability unless the cooling system was hugely neglected for many years.

Beater
05-02-2009, 09:47 AM
what he said.

you should have a hot top hose, and a warm lower hose under load/thermosat open.

Water pump should only be looked at after you have pressure tested for leaks, tested tstat and fan clutch, and verified no flow restrictions in system.

I did a whole bunch of water pumps on 60/62's back in the day, but never saw a 40 with a bad one. However, there were signifigantly less 40's being used as dd's by soccer mom/dad's...





In a perfect world, you'd see a big drop in temp across the input and output of both your heater core (with the heater on) and your radiator (with the thermostat open). This indicates that those devices are rejecting heat as designed. Put another way, if the temp in and out of the radiator is the same, then your radiator isn't doing anything. This glib statement does have to be tempered a bit by reality and system design, but it's basically true.

There's no practical way I know of to check water pump performance (impeller being rusted off) other than by pulling the pump and visually checking it. I rate this as a fairly low probability unless the cooling system was hugely neglected for many years.

Boulder Cruiser
05-05-2009, 08:33 PM
Been sick the past couple days. Today i brought it to a buddy of mine who has a thermometer. I got up to 210 on the highway to get to him, and down to 190 when i got there. If i have the heat on it doesnt make it go down but it does keep it from going up. I learned that my temp gauge is accurate within a few degrees of the t-stat temp. With the truck just sitting there the rad reads 120-140 across the board, including the lower hose. The t-stat and upper hose read 170.
Am i wrong to think that since it does better with the heat on that the radiator isnt big enough or clogged?