Shift Cane SST
Toyota made a Special Service Tool (SST) to be used when removing/installing the shifter on cruiser. Over the year's I've used screwdrivers, channel locks pliers and too often have made it a two guy affair - one guy pushing the cap down and the other guy rotating with a screw driver.
Today, I set out to work on my welding skills (they still have a way to go:o) and make a SST for the purpose of installing/removing a shifter.
Here is a photo of a 3 speed shifter (4 speed is basically the same).
That ball like assembly actually contains a spring, half round cap and shifter cap.
When installing you line up the slot in the shifter cap with the dowel pins in the transmission, push everything down and then rotate clockwise so that the dowel pins set in their slot then stop pushing and the spring holds everything in place. Note, some rotate counter clockwise instead of clockwise :rolleyes:.
When removing you push down and rotate so the dowel pins release; of course not knowing if your's is clockwise or counter clockwise means you get to try it both ways.
On to making an SST, I started off with a couple of small pieces of 1/8" strap; 1.5" wide and 1.25" long. I then approximated the angle of the half round cap and traced it out on one of my pieces.
I then carefully ground away, frequently checking the curve and fit. I then traced the curve to the other piece of metal and did same.
Next, I mocked up the position of the two small pieces - so that I could determine how wide apart they needed to be to clear the shifter, align with the contour of the curve and contact the outer cap.
I then cut a 2" X 2" square from a 1/8" thick plate.
Next I notched the 2" square so that by small pieces could be bracketed. Using an angle grinder for the notch was challenging but I managed to get it done. With the three pieces of metal tacked together, I tested the fit again. Comfortable that everything was lined up, I proceeded to weld the 4 beads that will hold it all together. Here it is ready for the first full length bead.
As each bead was done, I would check the fit to insure the heat had not warped things out of alignment. It really fits quite well considering my experience, skills and tools.
With all the welding done, I then used the grinder to notch out some grooves to hold the "handles" and wire wheel to clean it all up. I suppose I could make permanent handles, but then what would I use all my extra torx drivers for :D.
Fortunately the welds did not have to be structurally strong. Looking at them closely, I'm not seeing even penetration and coverage between the pieces of metal.
Now, I've got a better tool for removing and installing the shift lever on FJ40's and FJ60's. :thumb:
Nice. Check out that weld! Once you get the consistent size down, it will look like a professional's!
Very cool Ricardo!
A great idea for sure! Of course, now everyone who needs that tool will just be showing up at your house to borrow that one! :D
Heres another tip for improving your tool: Go to Harbor Freight and get their el cheapo 12" crescent wrench. Weld your homemade set of adapters to both sides of the jaws of the wrench. That way they can be opened wider or narrower if needed and the handle is built in.
Looks like you are welding with flux core wire. If you ever get a gas tank and go to solid core wire, your welds will be prettier with better penetration and less spatter.
your welds actually look pretty good man... I mean the machine settings look alright.
do you rest your hand while welding?
Steady it with something to keep the bead in the right spot, tune your speed in a bit (more consistent) and the welds will be sweet.
I am using gas, the splatter is very minimal and would wire brush out if I really worked it. While practicing yesterday, I did a weld with the gas turned off (didn't realize it) and it was very obvious that something was not right as the weld was dirty, very pourous and riddled with splatter.
Yesterday, I made a few coupons from my piece of strap and practiced butt welds. I am seeing the puddle just fine, but not clearly seeing the joint. So I took to placing a third tack weld in the middle so that it was easier to follow the joint. I ground down my butt welds as I wanted to see if the metal was "fully melded", i.e. no trace of the joint could be seen. Once the welds were ground away, it looked like a piece of strap metal that had not ever been cut.
I did some reading and my issue with not seeing the joint could be two fold; I'm not beveling the edges (shouldn't really be necessary with 1/8") and/or I'm not leaving any gap between the edges - either of these two adjustments should make the seeing the joing much easier. I do think that I'll start beveling as it appears to be a sound preperation step to be in the habit of doing. I'll be doing some more coupons to improve my technique:D.
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