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-   -   replacing the exhaust/intake gasket 2f (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=18797)

bigcity25 11-23-2012 01:32 PM

replacing the exhaust/intake gasket 2f
My 2f has developed a exhaust leak somewhere at the manifold. When the truck is in gear and engine under load there is a definite noise. I don't have any loss of power (just mpg's) but a strong smell of exhaust in the cab. I can't see any "deposits" of carbon per say but I am pretty sure it needs replacing. The exhaust is almost a year old, desmogged 2f with weber carb and oem intake/exhaust manifold.
My question is: is it pretty cut and dry pulling that apart? Can I keep the carb attached and pull the entire system back as one piece? I ordered a remflex gasket and will start spraying the pb blaster tonight. Any other pearls of wisdom from you guys?
BTW the exhaust tip is behind the rear tire and just sits about 1/4 inch past the body to help avoid exhaust being drawn in.

farnhamstj 11-23-2012 03:26 PM

Is the manifold oem or do you have an aftermarket header? Difficult part is dealing with rust bolts. Just take it apart and post pics of what you find.

bigcity25 11-23-2012 04:18 PM

Keepin' it real with the oem exhaust/intake manifold.

rover67 11-23-2012 06:19 PM

Others may have another opinion, but I couldn't get the remflex gasket to keep from blowing out. Itd seal for a while, but then it blow out where the manifold was warped eventually. It was just too soft and too thick in places I think. I tried it 3 times.

Anywho, I'd say the best thing to do is to try to get the intake and exhaust faced as a bolted together assembly so it is super flat where it hits the head, then make sure all the spots where the washers for the bolts hit on the manifold ears are all the same thickness. So basically where each washer hits make sure when bolted down it pulls evenly on both parts of the manifold. I used a dermal tool and took my time doing it and it worked fine.

Lastly, Use a stock gasket..... and when you torque it, follow the book! It seems like really light torque but it works. Don't be tempted to over tighten or you'll warp the manifolds again and they'll eventually leak.

So anyways, mine (and I've only done one 2f) didn't stay reliably sealed until I did it with the stock gasket, machined flat, and with the washer surfaces all the same thickness. I think others have had good luck with the remflex stuff.

rover67 11-23-2012 06:30 PM

Oh, and also, it takes a little work to get to the back most bolt... A universal joint on a extension with a short socket should get it. You'll have to work to get it all. It is kind of a job but it goes ok...

bigcity25 11-23-2012 08:26 PM

Cool thanks for the advice, I was reading on mud that guys liked the remflex. But what threw them a curve was the torque specs. Guess its less lbs for the remflex as compared to the FSM. I rolled the dice with the more expensive gasket. Due to the feedback on mud and remflexs claims. I have no idea if the head is warped so I'll get a straight edge out and check it. I hope that this isn't a real crazy project. But I am sick of smelling like exhaust and I was told exhaust is bad for my......my.....ah......brains.

rover67 11-23-2012 10:11 PM

I'm not talking about the head being warped, I am talking about the manifolds being warped where they meet the head.

Yes, the folk on mud like the remflex..

bigcity25 11-23-2012 10:54 PM

Copy thanks

farnhamstj 11-24-2012 10:04 AM

You will smell exhaust and fuel for as long as you own and drive a fj40. I sold mine 6 years ago and I can still smell it. ;)

bigcity25 11-24-2012 12:39 PM


Originally Posted by farnhamstj (Post 222233)
You will smell exhaust and fuel for as long as you own and drive a fj40. I sold mine 6 years ago and I can still smell it. ;)

Yeah I got that, but it just got worse and now my clothes stink. So after driving it for the last 2 years there's an obvious change.

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