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-   -   RTH - Front axle question? (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=19028)

gr8fulabe 01-21-2013 11:39 AM

RTH - Front axle question?
 
Hi All,
I'm working on the front axle of my FJ62, trying to tighten up the locknuts inside the hubs, as they are loose & one of many things contributing to death wobble. I pulled the hub covers & body off (including the snap ring), to get to the big locknuts & that lockring plate.

The axle (or I think more appropriately the end of the birf) has about an 1/8inch of play in it (in & out, not rotationally). Is this normal? I would have though it would be tight in there?

Also, I'm using a write up from the old Birfield.com site of Morgan Fletcher that I printed forever ago. Now, I can't seem to find the page with the tightening specs. Anyone happen to know off hand what torque for the adjusting nut & locknut on this?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Best,
Abe

corsair23 01-21-2013 12:32 PM

I'm guessing the FJ62 is similar to the 80 series to some extent up front...

It's been awhile since I serviced the front axle but there is play and on the 80 series anyway you have to thread a bolt into the hole in the end of the shaft so that you can pull it out and install the snap ring.

As for the torque specs...I could give you the specs for an 80 series but I'm guessing they are different :hill:

Some tighten that inner nut by feel, some using a fish scale, some with torque wrench, etc. IIRC the fish scale method is to adjust the inner nut so there is around 8 lbs of resistance on the scale. The torque spec on the inner nut is in the in-lb range...Don't remember the locking nut spec but somewhere in the 40 range rings a bell? I'm probably way off.

If one the smart 60 owners doesn't post up I'm sure you can find the info on MUD along with probably a dozen or more suggestions on the "right" way to do it :)

rover67 01-21-2013 12:58 PM

That sounds normal for the birfield...

As far as tightening goes, I do it by feel, but a good way I have heard it described is to tighten the inner nut hard to set the bearings and squish the. Grease around, turn the hub a few times, loosen and tighten again the same way, then on the last final tightening step, only tighten that inn nut as hard as you can with your hands on the hub socket... No wrench.

Looser is better than tighter.

corsair23 01-21-2013 01:28 PM

x2 on what Marco states about tighten, turn the hub, loosen and tighten, turn hub, etc. FSM states to turn the hub left and right 2-3 times. This step is important especially when you have put in new grease and/or new races and bearings to seat them.

Here are the specs on the 80 series hub:

Install thrust washer and adjusting nut and torque to 43 ft-lbf (59 Nm)
Turn hub right and left 2-3 times
Torque nut again to 43 ft-lbf (59 Nm)
Loosen nut until it can be turned by hand
Torque adjusting nut to 48 in-lbf (5.4 Nm) - NOTE that is inch pounds
Check that the bearing has no play
Using a spring tension gauge (fish scale), measure the preload - 6.4-12.6 lbf is the range
Install lock washer and lock nut
Torque lock nut to 47 ft-lbf
Check that the hub turns smootly and that the bearing has no play
Check the preload again (6.4-12.6 lbf range)
If preload is not within spec readjust the adjusting nut

Caveat here is that the above all assumes that the brake caliper has been removed and isn't adding additional friction on the rotor/hub. If your brake calipers are still in place and you adjust things to meet the specs above you'll probably end up too light on the preload. I know in the 80 series world some folks suggest just torquing the adjusting nut to anywhere from 10-20 pounds and calling it a day. These folks claim to have done 100s of axle services and to have never had any issues with going tighter than the FSM specs. They claim to not have issues with things loosening up nor issues with the bearings getting hot from things being too tight.

Romer 01-21-2013 01:31 PM

Agree on the play being normal

Its very similar and you might find this thread helpful http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...build-faq.html

gr8fulabe 01-21-2013 01:39 PM

Thanks Guys! Romer - I'm reading through your other thread now.

One other question for you guys. The intructions I do have just say to take the locking hub & put it to the side as-is, and slide it back in as a unit (no need to re-assemble). Mine just fell apart in my hand. How hard is it to put it back together, or screw up doing so? My hanes manual doesn't really show a re-assembly, just an exploded picture of it. Any tips before I start searching threads?

Thanks,
Abe

corsair23 01-21-2013 02:00 PM

80's don't have locking hubs so I'm no help...

Is it a Warn or Aisin hub? I'd just search on MUD etc. for reassembly instructions.

DanS 01-22-2013 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr8fulabe (Post 225226)
Thanks Guys! Romer - I'm reading through your other thread now.

One other question for you guys. The intructions I do have just say to take the locking hub & put it to the side as-is, and slide it back in as a unit (no need to re-assemble). Mine just fell apart in my hand. How hard is it to put it back together, or screw up doing so? My hanes manual doesn't really show a re-assembly, just an exploded picture of it. Any tips before I start searching threads?

Thanks,
Abe

As asked: Aisin or Warn/aftermarket?

If Aisin, it's tricky, but not hard. There's a good writeup on ih8mud on rebuilding the Aisin hubs.

Dan

gr8fulabe 01-22-2013 01:06 PM

They are stock/Aisin. I found a write up on mud, as suggested. I've got it together & it rolls in free, so that seems promising at any rate!

Thanks
All!

DanS 01-22-2013 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr8fulabe (Post 225310)
They are stock/Aisin. I found a write up on mud, as suggested. I've got it together & it rolls in free, so that seems promising at any rate!

Thanks
All!

The only tricky part with the Aisin's is getting the follower pawl and the locking ring held together with the "spring retainer" thing. The rest of it is super easy.

Even that's not HARD, just frustrating, and often times takes WAY too long.

Dan


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