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-   -   Sprinkler/plumbing help (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=19657)

smslavin 05-27-2013 07:13 PM

Sprinkler/plumbing help
I was trying to put off turning on the sprinklers as long as possible but it's time. The front lawn is starting to make us look like the Clampetts (not that I really care all that much) and Bec is on my case.

When I turned everything back on, there was a leak on the ball valve that connects the backflow valve with the line to the sprinkler system. So I went and bought a new ball valve. The kid at HD looked at me a little strangely since my arms look like I got in a fight with a cat. I actually just got stuck between the engine and the firewall trying to reach the t-case and transmission breather valves on my FJ. I would've preferred the fight with a cat.

Came home and stared at the valve for awhile.


<VillageIdiot>How do I get that thing off?</VillageIdiot>

There's also a leak at the next threaded junction right before the pipe goes into the ground. What do I need to fix this stuff besides a bigger wrench?

baja1d 05-27-2013 08:15 PM

Need pictures due to so many variations in manifold set ups.

baja1d 05-27-2013 08:19 PM

BTW, You tube is sometimes a good resource

smslavin 05-27-2013 09:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by baja1d (Post 233473)
Need pictures due to so many variations in manifold set ups.

Yea, I s'pose that could help. The ball valve with the blue handle is leaking from the threads closest to the backflow, the left side.

Attachment 33150

Cruising the intertubes now...

..:: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ::..

DaveInDenver 05-27-2013 09:05 PM



baja1d 05-27-2013 09:20 PM

Looks like you'll be learning to sweat pipes unless there's a disconnect on either side not shown in the picture. Strictly based on the picture... You'll need to shut off the water & cut the copper pipe on the right side in an effort to remove the manifold. Most likely your manifold is broken but hopefully it's just a small crack in male threads. At any rate, replace what's cracked & reinstall with a disconnect this time. Sweating pipe is easy if you've got the copper pipe & fitting cleaned (shinny) really good. apply flux to both pipe & fitting before attaching. Solder flows towards the heat so only apply heat to direction you want the solder to flow. Take your time, clean every thing really good, and be patient for the heat transfer- your solder sucks in when it's hot enough. Get the yellow container of gas, the blue takes too long to heat the pipe. You tube would be your friend for this procedure


kurtnkegger 05-27-2013 10:14 PM

After you get one cut off, the other can be removed, and replaced. Looks like there is a leak coming from the red handled valve as well. With the labor involved, I would replace both valves while it is part, and only one sweat joint is needed.

smslavin 05-28-2013 08:37 AM

thanks for the input

nakman 05-28-2013 10:43 AM

Is that the position those valves were left in all winter?

smslavin 05-28-2013 11:02 AM


Originally Posted by nakman (Post 233502)
Is that the position those valves were left in all winter?

no it wasn't. i was turning them on and off yesterday trying to see where the leak was coming from.

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