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-   -   Dual Battery Questions (http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=8945)

Air Randy 01-16-2009 08:15 PM

Dual Battery Questions
 
I'm thinking I need to go to a two battery setup in the 40 to ensure enough juice if I ever have to do some heavy winching. A few questions:

1-What is the most economical way to do the HW for dual batteries? Get an extra stock battery tray and fab something up? I already have 2 new HD 1000 CCA batteries so I don't want to go red or yellow tops if possible.

Currently I am running the stock 1974 alternator with a new, electronic voltage regulator. How much bigger should I go with the alternator and how much bigger can I go with the VR I currently have?

Last question-I just got a 2F out of the 1980 FJ40 that Timmbuck is parting out including the alternator. That unit looks like it has the VR built onto it. Is this unit any bigger that it would be worth my while to swap it with the current unit?

Red_Chili 01-17-2009 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MtnTrucker (Post 94787)
I already have 2 new HD 1000 CCA batteries so I don't want to go red or yellow tops if possible.

Holy cow.

We know who to come to if my on board welder dies and someone needs a repair to get off the trail.

Go big on the alternator. Big as you can.

Uncle Ben 01-17-2009 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red_Chili (Post 94817)
Holy cow.

We know who to come to if my on board welder dies and someone needs a repair to get off the trail.

Go big on the alternator. Big as you can.

WERD! Alternators are items that you need to spend a little money on! Anybody can crank an alternator output up but heat will kill it quickly. True upgraded alternators are ported with greatly improved airflow and high quality heat sinks. To combine the bats use a high quality solonoid or one of the commercially available combiners, avoid isolators! Isos work good in the family camper to charge the accessory batt but the high amp loads and rapid multi use that is associated with 4 wheeling is way beyond what an isolator can handle.

nakman 01-17-2009 09:13 AM

Randy you seem like a do it once, do it right, kind of guy... so here's my recommendation for the battery tray: http://www.stainlesstrays.com/ however your big arse batteries are probably bigger than the optimas, so you may not be able to use the bottom clamps like they have, but I bet you can fab something similar. I sure like those though, what a clean way to do it..

and I envy in a 40 how you can put both batteries right next to each other, sure makes the wiring simple, nothing running across the firewall, behind the radiator, etc. like us big wagons have.

Air Randy 01-17-2009 03:14 PM

Thanks for the info Nakman

Guys, what about the question on the alternator? How big can I go before I over whelm the electronic VR I already gave. If I go with one of the mammoth 200+ amp units, is there much re-wiring required to get the VR out of the circuit?

Red_Chili 01-17-2009 03:18 PM

If it is a modern VR, exciter voltage type, I think the weak link is the alternator itself (windings and diode board especially). The Zeppster will chime in here no doubt.

You don't want a shunt type VR in there.

Upgrade the alt output to keep those 2,000 CCAs in their homey abode.

Air Randy 01-17-2009 03:22 PM

It's about 2 weeks old from NAPA, bolts right in same as the original but much thinner and it's electronic. I'm just wondering what the upper limit is it can handle if the upgraded unit doesn't have an integral VR?

Rzeppa 01-17-2009 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MtnTrucker (Post 94787)
I'm thinking I need to go to a two battery setup in the 40 to ensure enough juice if I ever have to do some heavy winching. A few questions:

1-What is the most economical way to do the HW for dual batteries? Get an extra stock battery tray and fab something up? I already have 2 new HD 1000 CCA batteries so I don't want to go red or yellow tops if possible.

Currently I am running the stock 1974 alternator with a new, electronic voltage regulator. How much bigger should I go with the alternator and how much bigger can I go with the VR I currently have?

Last question-I just got a 2F out of the 1980 FJ40 that Timmbuck is parting out including the alternator. That unit looks like it has the VR built onto it. Is this unit any bigger that it would be worth my while to swap it with the current unit?

I ran a dual battery setup for many years in my 76 FJ40. The RV isolator is the way to go and worked extremely well for me. Basically, your main battery starts your truck up and runs your automotive related things like wipers, heater blower and lights. Your aux battery system runs your big stereo (what I put mine in for), winch or whatever doesn't relate to getting you down the road. I have a schematic on my web site, in sig line below.

The stock 40 series 40 Amp alternator works fine for these applications in my personal experience. You are basically recharging two batteries, and the isolator makes sure that one doesn't get overcharged when the other one doesn't need it.

An interesting side note, when you have an isolated dual-battery system, you only need one jumper cable to get you going again in case you left your lights on and drained your regular battery. You jump yourself + to + and bada boom bada bing, off you go.

azcromntic 01-07-2013 05:03 PM

Okay, let me add a litle complexity here. Let's say I go with a dual battery system on a 94 FZJ using an isolator. Then I want a 3 volt circuit coming off of the second battery, at 20 Amps. Actually, I could add the circuit without the second battery to start out with; that might be better for me right now.

Do they sell some device, voltage divider, or voltage splitter to do that? Where would I get that? It'd be okay if it were 6 volts but 3 volts would be better. My web searches seem to indicate no such thing and I'd have to design my own voltage divider out of some high watt resistors. How about the alternator; upgrade that in this scenario?

I'd probably want an in cab switch also. Good source for electronics stuff? Is it Mouser.com?

Fishy 01-07-2013 05:31 PM

Something like this?
http://www.powerstream.com/dc-dcz0303.htm

There are a ton of voltage reducers on the market. I think 12v to 6v is most common??
http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/261/68003/

Cole Hersee has a lot of electronics stuff.
http://www.colehersee.com/

E&G Terminal in Commerce City carries a lot too. Good for local pick up http://egterminal.com/

I like the idea of having 3v available from the battery. Paging Dave......paging Dave?
I would like to be able to connect a SPOT transmitter into my vehicle for GPS check ins and to avoid using AA bateries. If that is even possible?


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