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Old 06-09-2010, 11:18 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
Rising Sun Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,393

Thanks for the insight and I know a bit more after this evenings session and can still use some input - regarding stabbing the distributor.

First and update on the diagnosing. The first thing we did was check continuity on the oil pressure sender circuit; power to sender wire fitting and ground to oil pressure sender. Last fall I had the sender (temperature) wire fitting get brittle resulting in the temperature gauge not working - so I wanted to rule out that our no reading on the oil pressure gauge being due to a wiring issue in the circuit.

Next we cranked the engine for 30 seconds. There was no reading on the oil pressure sender.

Next we removed the distributor and spun the oil pump with a blade in a drill. The oil pressure sender registered pressure. It didn't take long (maybe 5 seconds) for the oil pressure sender to start registering the pressure. On the F.5 (and 2F) engines, it is my understanding that oil to the top passes through holes on the cam and that at TDC the holes are not open to the top - so we didn't spin the pump with the expectation of seeing oil come out the rockers. I am confident in the oil pump being ok.

So, we have confirmed the oil pressure sender gauge and oil pump are working. Our issue is with the stabbing of the distributor. Prior to removing it tonight, I had it fully seated to the block (I'm very sure about this) but it was not engaging and spinning the oil pump (I'm very sure about this as well) - I know this inconsistent.

When I removed the dizzy from the new engine this evening, it was a real bear to remove, I had to use some gentle persuasion from below to get it out. It was also a bear to put in when I stabbed it a few days ago. When adjusting the valves, I also confirmed the rotor was moving around in a circle as I rotated the engine.

I have 3 dizzys and two engines in the garage, so I did some experimenting and all three dizzys are pretty easy to stab into the old engine and all three dizzys are very difficult to get stabbed into the new engine. TheBoomBoom gave it a go and experienced the same thing.

As the dizzy goes in, it becomes very tight/hard when the gear on the dizzy shaft meshes with the gear on the cam shaft. It is like the gears are not aligned or the ridges in one are too thick. From this point continuing to push the dizzy down requires HE-MAN FORCE. We tried turning the engine at the flywheel while stabbing to see of some movement (maybe 10 degrees) of the camshaft would align things better and did not see any improvement. I have minimal dizzy stabbing experience, so it may be that sometimes HE-MAN FORCE is required - but it does not feel right.

While this engine is new to the truck, it is not an engine that I rebuilt. I've basically replaced gaskets and seals and added accessories that were not with the engine when i got it. I did not do any work to the timing gears, camshaft, crankshaft, pistons, etc. I'm not saying there is not an issue with any of these items, just letting you know that I didn't work on any of these items.

Before pulling the dizzy tonight we set the engine at 7 BDTC of the compression stroke of cylinder one. So, what next? Should I drop the oil pan so that I can stab the dizzy and visually confirm it is fully seating into the oil pump? Who is the Rising Sun dizzy stabbing champion/expert, perhaps I can get them to lend me a hand.
Ricardo Maestas - Bio Page
1999 LX 470
SOLD - 1971 FJ-40
TLCA #18941
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