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Old 06-10-2010, 09:42 PM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Centennial, CO
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Ok guys, I think we can put this thread to bed as I have oil pressure with a dizzy stabbed in.

I went through the checks suggested in the thread;
  • Depth from the block to the oil pump compared to the dizzy shafts. The shafts are long enough. The depth on both engines are within 1/8" of each other - interestingly the new engine is less depth than the old engine.
  • I checked the camshaft gear for any movement/slippage and there is none. For this I found a drum brake adjusting tool to work very well as the angle made it easier to get leverage for a good test.
  • I then practiced stabbing the dizzy on the old engine a few times, to get a better feel for where the slot needs to be how far to the right to start the stab, what it feels like when it is wrong, what it feels like when it is right.
I then gave it a go with the new engine. Low a behold, it was snug but not HE-MAN tight and stabbed in all the way. Unfortunately the base locking plate of the dizzy (60 series big cap) was not oriented correctly, i.e. it was too close to the block to allow for advancing the timing. So I pulled it out and proceeded to try and get it all in perfect - when I thought I was there I call Rick out and we cranked it over. Sadly there was no oil pressure and we lost our flywheel position as I did not take the time to rotate the engine to TDC when the rotor was pointing to plug 1.

At this point I was ready to call it a night but decided to give it another try. Yeah, I know that even if I got it done the chance of it being in the right position on the flywheel is pretty slim - but I just had to know tonight if the dizzy would turn the oil pump or was I going to spend tomorrow evening dropping the oil pan.

Well, I know the dizzy turns the oil pump. I got it stabbed in and can see oil pressure on the gauge when spinning the motor with the starter. So tomorrow, I'll pull the dizzy get everything lined up a 7 BTDC on the compression stroke and see if I can get it all the way in, with the appropriate placement of the dizzy base locking plate. Once I have achieved this, it should be started up and running within a few minutes; just need to reconnect the fuel line and hook up the ignition wires.

Thanks for your posts and the thought process the helped me make my way through.
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