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Old 07-30-2010, 05:57 PM
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coax coax is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Estes Park
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Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
because it's supposed to be tapered where it engages the inner race, and when the inner race has worn down the spindle, there's no way to accurately preload the bearing. Essentially, the inner race is bearing (verb) on a worn 'point' on the spindle, rather than spreading the load and friction (that prevents the race from spinning) across a wider/bigger area.
Interesting! I was under the impression that the only piece in the system that was tapered was the bearing/race. I thought that the inside of the bearing was essentially flat with no angle, as was the spindle. Otherwise the bearing could "bottom out" on the spindle before making proper contact with the race?

Definitely don't doubt that a worn spindle would cause this excessive spinning. I'm trying to reason out if I were to back off on the preload, to maybe like 20 ft/lbs, and as long as there is no wobble, if that may stop the bearing spinning on the spindle. But it could also be too worn that it won't matter....

Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
Can you post a photo of the spindle where the wear occurred?
I don't have a great pic, one attached has grease so can't really tell much. I will probably end up having to go back in, so can take a pic then.

Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
I just rebuilt the Dana 60 axle in the front of our cruiser. Different axle but it goes together exactly the same way the Toyota axle does. The bearings on both sides were bone dry and had locked up the bearings letting them spin on the spindles thus wearing them pretty badly. I replaced both spindles because the inner bearing race needs to fit snug on the spindle to prevent the inner race from spinning.
Yep, my bearings fit "snug-ish" :-D I am pretty new at this so not sure how exact the tolerances should be.

Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
On the Dana 60, after installing new bearings and races, you use a torque wrench and tighten the inner bearing adjustment nut to 50 ft lbs, spin the hub several times, then back the nut off 1/8 to 1/4 turn until the preload is about 6-7 on the fish scale.
Interesting, I may try this method. When I adjusted, followed the FSM of tightening, loosening all the way, and then slowing re-torquing until i got about 6-8 on the scale. But that torque on the bearing ended up being something like 40+ ft/lbs...probably a bit too high.
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post

Unless you crush the needle bearings into the race by massive over torquing, I can't imagine that causing the inner race to spin on the spindle as long as you back it off to the appropriate pre-load.
Do you think that excessive force on the needle bearings, combined with a loose fitting spindle would leave less friction between the spindle and inner bearing surface than on the bearing-to-race surface, especially with the bearings packed with grease? And subsequently allowing the bearing to spin in the wrong spot?
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Did you buy OEM bearings or after market?
I got them at Autozone, but they are timken's, which IIRC was "factory" in the later model years of the 80.

I'll probably end up getting paranoid and end up feeding dan's dogs, but may try and decrease the preload first. More suggestions welcome!
'97 lx450, 170k, factory lockers, ome 850/863, 285's, 4 working doors(1 more than the old fj55 )
'74 project pig (sold)
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