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Old 07-30-2010, 06:48 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Littleton
Posts: 8,684

Originally Posted by coax View Post
1. During reassembly, went through the procedure in the FSM. However, to get above the min 6.4lbf fishscale on the hub, I had to torque the inner bearing well above the 4lbf spec'd. Probably at least up to 40lbf+ area to get correct fishscale reading.
2. A few weeks ago did a full break job, requiring the hubs to get pulled . Passenger side looked fine, but it appeared as if the DS bearing was spinning on the spindle (the thrust/claw washer had wear marks in the inner side).
I saw your post on MUD but I generally try to limit my comments that put my lack of mechanical skill in the limelight to this forum

Anyway...My thought is, and maybe the smarter folks will correct me, that if you are getting scoring on the claw washer from the bearing the cause of that is a loose bearing. I did the full front end service last October when I swapped to 4.88s. This included all new bearings, races, etc. I mucked with the stupid preload for a long time until I got it perfect, or so I thought.

About a month ago I started hearing noises...The noise was normally heard on the highway when letting off the gas and was what I imagined would be made by bearings that were "loose" and cavitating. I lifted the front end and did the 6/12 o'clock tire wiggle test and sure enough I had movement. Not a lot but then again I have no idea how much if any is ok.

So, I pulled the front end apart and on both sides I could see where the outer bearing had scored the claw washer a little bit . The other thing I noticed is on the PS I had moly grease invading the outer bearing and it had all but washed away the red Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease . So I repacked the outer bearings and installed new claw washers and mucked with the stupid preload again. Didn't think about it at the time but this go around I didn't pull the calipers and my preload was much higher but I went with it.

I tried Three Wheel Ben's trick of tightening the inner nut to just "wrist tight" (i.e. holding the ratchet right at the hub socket and ratchet meet point, tighten the inner nut as tight as you can get it using just your wrist). Then I put on the lock washer and tightened the outer nut FSM tight. Well, my preload as measured with a scale was in the 20s - I finally got it down a bit and decided at 3am to just go with it. Before my hubs would stay cool and not heat up at all but that was with loose bearings I'm guessing. Now they get hot to the touch but not so hot that you can't touch them so I'm hoping I'll be alright and right in the sweet spot if everything loosens up a bit down the road.

The whole preload thing still confounds me because I can get it perfect on the inner nut but the moment I torque the outer nut to the FSM spec the preload shoots way up off the chart. Some of the guys on MUD suggest ignoring the FSM all together, including measuring the preload with a fish scale, and to just torque the inner nut to 20 lb/ft and the outer to whatever (FSM tight?) and call it good.

What I can tell you is that I'm no longer hearing what I suspected was the loose bearing noise and I'm hoping that I'm not too tight that my bearings will fail early.

Some day I need to sit down with Ben and have him show me his technique again but it really shouldn't be this hard! I bet I spent an hour taking everything apart and repacking the bearings and 2 hours mucking with the stupid preload
Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'07 UZJ100
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs


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