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Old 08-02-2010, 01:57 PM
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coax coax is offline
Hard Core 4+
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Estes Park
Posts: 750

Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
I saw your post on MUD but I generally try to limit my comments that put my lack of mechanical skill in the limelight to this forum
Right there with ya! I generally include lots of pictures and measurements to disguise my lack of wrenching ability whenever I post.

Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
So, I pulled the front end apart and on both sides I could see where the outer bearing had scored the claw washer a little bit . The other thing I noticed is on the PS I had moly grease invading the outer bearing and it had all but washed away the red Mobil 1 wheel bearing grease . So I repacked the outer bearings and installed new claw washers and mucked with the stupid preload again. Didn't think about it at the time but this go around I didn't pull the calipers and my preload was much higher but I went with it.
Same for me. A bit of cross contamination between the greases on the side that was spinning.

Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
I tried Three Wheel Ben's trick of tightening the inner nut to just "wrist tight" (i.e. holding the ratchet right at the hub socket and ratchet meet point, tighten the inner nut as tight as you can get it using just your wrist). Then I put on the lock washer and tightened the outer nut FSM tight. Well, my preload as measured with a scale was in the 20s - I finally got it down a bit and decided at 3am to just go with it. Before my hubs would stay cool and not heat up at all but that was with loose bearings I'm guessing. Now they get hot to the touch but not so hot that you can't touch them so I'm hoping I'll be alright and right in the sweet spot if everything loosens up a bit down the road.

The whole preload thing still confounds me because I can get it perfect on the inner nut but the moment I torque the outer nut to the FSM spec the preload shoots way up off the chart. Some of the guys on MUD suggest ignoring the FSM all together, including measuring the preload with a fish scale, and to just torque the inner nut to 20 lb/ft and the outer to whatever (FSM tight?) and call it good.

What I can tell you is that I'm no longer hearing what I suspected was the loose bearing noise and I'm hoping that I'm not too tight that my bearings will fail early.
This is exactly what I am worried about. So what I did this weekend was take the drivers side apart. I pulled things down to the claw washer, and flipped it over (onto the fresh, unscored side). Then I tightened to 40, loosened, went to handtight or about 5ft/lbs, and then another 1/6th of a turn or so. I used the torque wrench and it didn't click at the lowest setting of somewhere below that. Now both hubs seem to heat up about the same after a 15 min drive, hot to touch but no so hot you can't leave your hand on there.

This is quite a bit different from how I did it before w/ scale. Doing that I ended up with probably 40-50 ft/lbs of preload...and worried about too much causing bearing failure. plan is to open things back up in another 500 miles or so, and see if the other side of the washer is getting scored as well. If so, I think it may be time for new spindles. (Though interesting thing, when I had it opened up, with no claw washer on there, I pushed on the inner race of the bearing with my hand and turned the hub with the other. No spinning of the inner race with just hand pressure holding in on there. Maybe too much preload was causing it to spin since more force there due to worn spindle.)

At any rate, I'll post back up what I find in the next month or so.

Thanks all,
'97 lx450, 170k, factory lockers, ome 850/863, 285's, 4 working doors(1 more than the old fj55 )
'74 project pig (sold)
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