You know you can still buy brand new rag joints right, from JTO?
You can go with 4" lift springs and you will hate yourself because of the lousy ride, both on and off road. If you do the SOA correctly (east to do it right) your rig will ride and handle better plus it will perform better off road.
If you do the SOA you should also do the front shackle reversal at the same time and flip your front & rear springs, this will give you 6" more wheel base. In the process you will also do U bolt flip and high steer, all things which will much improve your offroad capability.
Whether you do 4" lift or SOA you will have to rotate your rear pinion up due to the driveline angle and then have a dual cardan CV driveshaft built. Otherwise you will have vibration and be replacing rear U joints quite frequently. You will have to grind out the valleys on your front driveshaft yoke to keep it from binding and breaking at full droop unless you do a cut & turn on the front housing (the right way to do it).
IMHO either do a 2" lift and 33's or do a SOA if you want to go bigger.
As far as steering gears I'm sure you could mount one out of a Maserati with enough time, money and fabrication skills. The reason for the "tried & true" methods (mini truck & saginaw) are: They work well, are relatively easy modifications to perform, are relatively inexpensive and the parts are readily available almost any where.
If you get a 2F alternator bracket and move your alternator to the passenger side and get a Mark's Offroad PS pump bracket, you can also bolt a saginaw pump right up to the engine block. Whether you go mini truck, saginaw, 60/80 or whatever on the steering gear it's a good idea to go saginaw on the pump. They're inexpensive, they produce higher pressure (stronger power steering), are supposed to last much longer than the toyot units and they are readily available at any parts house/junk yard.
Randy Rosetta KDØKWX TLCA #19351 69 FJ40 "Meanie" & 1970 Boss 302 Mustang