Yes : letting the master cylinder "can" (but not always) damage the seal. Rendering the master cylinder defective.
- you don't need to bleed the lspv thingy unless you opened the lines to it directly. Or drained the system. The fluid pass threw it.
- I've found that the best way to bleed a troublesome system such as yours is a "one man brake bleeder" which is assentally just a tight fitting hose on the bleeder then submerged into a bottle filled about 1" with brake fluid. Because when you pump, the air comes out. But when you relese, it sucks fluid In, not air. Do this about 1/2 - 3-4 of the resivior. And you should be golden. If that dosent work un-bolt the rod to the diff and force it all the way up to take out all the slack in the piston essentially "top dead center " =( less volume to fill)
-Do not use pressure bleeders on vehicles with ABS ! You can distroy the motor. This is why tool manufacture stoped producing them. And you can only find vacume bleeders Now.
- I use vacume bleeders, the one man bleeder and the 3 pumps methods of bleeding. And the most affective method is the 3 pumps but you have to close the bleeder while the stream is still flowing solidly. And not after the flow stops. And open the bleader slowly. If you open it fast. Even with NO air, it will look like there is air Because of how it's shooting out.
TLCA # 20314
84 Hilux, 22re Conversion, 63" chevy rears, Rears up front, Bobbed bed, duel e-lockers, 5.29's, 35" Ground Hogs
Step by Step Bed Bob