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Old 09-10-2010, 11:25 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
Rising Sun Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Littleton
Posts: 8,684


I've done both the LX and the 80. The PHH just plain sucks for the most part due the really crappy location.

Obviously the first things are to remove the DS tire and the wheel well skirting so you have a nice sitting spot. Then, if he hasn't done so I would highly suggest that he remove the starter. Yeah, it is more work and can be a PITA to get out itself, but you have a ton more room to work. You CAN get an impact wrench in there to loosen the starter bolt on the front side. Tricks here are to move the AT dipstick tube out of the way (remove the dip stick first though ) at that is just a couple bolts IIRC. Then there is a support member or something or other toward the front of the wheel well and a couple bolts and that is out of the way.

If he can figure out a way to get to the hard pipe bolts (one top, one bottom) great. I never could so I did both trucks without being able to swing the hard pipe but using gentle bending makes the replacement possible. As I recall you don't want to take then all the way out, just loose. At least on one of them.

For the "tuna can" clamp I used pliers and a small flat head screwdriver to spin the clamp a little to start loosening it and the punched the "pin" out and that was it for that clamp.

For the spring clamp on the block nipple that the Toyota people were oh so nice to insure the protrusions were pointing straight back so you can't grab them there are a couple options.

One option as Corey mentions is to CAREFULLY cut it with a dremmel. You don't have to cut all the way through it, just enough so you can bend the living sh%& out of it and pull it off the block nipple - This was how I tackled the LX's PHH

Another option is to clamp on the old PHH with some vice grips or something and try to spin the hose and clamp until you can get to the clamp's protrusions. If need be you can slice the old hose so you can grab the end of it to spin.

Another option is to use some angled needle nosed pliers or even a big flat head screwdriver to try and spin the clamp. This trick worked for me on the 80 after I pondered it a bit. I learned a lot from doing the LX PHH.

Another option I've read people have tried but I'm not so sure it works is to use the Sears hose clamp removal tool. I have that tool and didn't even bother trying to use it as I didn't think you could get the end of the tool in the space.

A few more thoughts. Perfect time to rebuild the starter if it hasn't been done in a long while and you remove it. Perfect time to do a coolant flush, although you really don't loose much coolant when replacing the PHH.

When trying to get the new hose on, things typically don't get a whole lot better. IIRC I had the most success by putting the new hose on the block nipple first and then ramming the tube into place. Just don't forget to put the clamps on first (DAMHIK). Use your favorite lubricant to "grease" up the tube and pipe to make installation easier. Believe it or not based on my readings I just bought some generic KY Jelly at King Soopers and that seemed to work fine and it is "water soluable"

Oh, and tell him to be careful of the knock sensor just in front (toward the front of the truck) of the PHH area. More than one person has fubarred that and then had one more thing to fix. Sort of like the radiator overflow/breather outlet on top of the radiator when changing the spark plugs

There are a ton of hints/suggestions in the numerous PHH threads on MUD. I read them all and used what ones worked best for me on the fly.

The nice thing, once he gets this done, he'll never have to worry about it again.
Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
TLCA #17037
'07 UZJ100
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs


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