Thread: Cracked Block
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:04 PM
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nattybumppo nattybumppo is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Northwest Denver
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Default Moab prep

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
I wish. So your worst cylinder adjusted for altitude is 133 psi, next worse is 141 and the rest are almost 150. 150 is what they should be new at sea level. Generally speaking it sounds like the rings aren't in too bad of shape.
These are words of wisdom. I can't afford a full engine rebuild right now since I can't use credit cards at Gunn's, so the plan is as follows.

1) Take the head in to Gunn for a rebuild.

2) Possibly do an in-truck hone and re-ring as Randy described earlier in this thread, although as noted above, they probably aren't too bad, except in #2 and maybe #5. (Drop oil pan, remove pistons, hone and ream all cylinders, replace rings and main bearings, right?)

3) Replace the rear and front main seals.

4) Possible replace the transmission/transfer case seal, though this is not critical since I have that return kit installed so there is a bandaid fix in place.

5) Install my Aussie locker in the rear, with bearing replacement if necessary since I have those parts ready to go.

6) Inspect the front knuckles and rebuild if necessary since I have a kit ready to go. (I think they are OK since I did the front axle service at the WBPP last spring, though we didn't touch the knuckles.)

7) Adjust the parking brake and clutch (grinds going into reverse only).

8) Flush the coolant and the brake fluid.

And voila! MOAB READY.

Randy, is your shop still available starting Monday, February 7? Ricardo, are you available for guidance and some moral support? Anybody else want to help/laugh at my feeble attempts at real mechanics?
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