Originally Posted by azcromntic
Thanks Randy! It is consuming 2 quarts every 440 miles.
I think I'll take off the valve cover, do valve PM per Service Manual, replace spark plug gaskets and valve cover gasket, replace spark plugs and install an oil seperator so I can get an idea of how much oil is going through PCV.
Plus, I could maybe run something through the fuel to clean out buildup on intake valves?
There really are no additives that are going to clean your valves, most of that stuff is just snake oil and is a waste of money.
Fix your oil leaks first, then lets see what your oil consumption is. If you are burning 2 qts in 440 miles due to bad rings, then you should see some blue smoke upon hard acceleration and the plugs should show signs of oil fouling. Bad valve guides typically give you a puff of smoke upon start up and under hard deceleration like coming down a long hill. But, your compression numbers dont obviously indicate either of those being the case.
IMHO spark plugs are like oil. If it makes you feel better to spend more money on NGK's or whatever, then it's money well spent. The truth of the matter though is your engine doesn't care what brand of spark plug is used and as long as you use the correct type of plug there is not really any difference in them. What does matter is that the the plug is the correct length and depth into the combustion chamber, thread type and most importantly the proper heat range. If you look up an NGK XYZ plug and cross reference it to a Champion equivalent, they will work fine. There are minor differences in electrode design so one plug may last a little longer than the other but usually the differences are really small.
If you use the factory recommended heat range it will work OK but may not be optimal. The factory plug was recommended based on a new engine operating at sea level. Ethanol wasn't common in those days and now you get a steady dose of it all winter long plus you are operating at higher elevations here. As you can see your compression is down a little from the factory specification. Take the part number of the plug that was in the engine and look it up online to see where it falls in the heat range. If it is towards the bottom or middle of the range, you may want to go up one notch. A slightly hotter plug will help minimize plug fouling if you are actually burning a little oil. Run the plug for a few hundred miles then pop them out and check them. You can get a lot of good pictures online that will help you learn what a plug looks like if it is running too cold, too hot or somewhere in between.