x2 on what Marco states about tighten, turn the hub, loosen and tighten, turn hub, etc. FSM states to turn the hub left and right 2-3 times. This step is important especially when you have put in new grease and/or new races and bearings to seat them.
Here are the specs on the 80 series hub:
Install thrust washer and adjusting nut and torque to 43 ft-lbf (59 Nm)
Turn hub right and left 2-3 times
Torque nut again to 43 ft-lbf (59 Nm)
Loosen nut until it can be turned by hand
Torque adjusting nut to 48 in-lbf (5.4 Nm) - NOTE that is inch pounds
Check that the bearing has no play
Using a spring tension gauge (fish scale), measure the preload - 6.4-12.6 lbf is the range
Install lock washer and lock nut
Torque lock nut to 47 ft-lbf
Check that the hub turns smootly and that the bearing has no play
Check the preload again (6.4-12.6 lbf range)
If preload is not within spec readjust the adjusting nut
Caveat here is that the above all assumes that the brake caliper has been removed and isn't adding additional friction on the rotor/hub. If your brake calipers are still in place and you adjust things to meet the specs above you'll probably end up too light on the preload. I know in the 80 series world some folks suggest just torquing the adjusting nut to anywhere from 10-20 pounds and calling it a day. These folks claim to have done 100s of axle services and to have never had any issues with going tighter than the FSM specs. They claim to not have issues with things loosening up nor issues with the bearings getting hot from things being too tight.
Jeff Z. (the "not quite as skinny" one)
'97 LX450 - aka "The Whale"
'97 FZJ80 Antique Sage AE #267, stock
12/74 FJ40, 2F, SM420, 4" Lift, ARBs, 33" MTRs
"...anything else i can do for you guys, how about i wash your car or mow your lawn while you figure out your firewall system? I am now boarderline insane/unibomber." Kipper
"That assumes I'm even capable of pulling and stabbing..." Jacket
"I really like having a detachable unit." Beater