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Old 01-21-2013, 09:49 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colo Springs
Posts: 1,321
Default Rebuilding an FZJ PS Pump - revised instructions

My brother Tom is not active on this forum, but has a '93 FZJ. Lately, the PS pump began to leak and he set out to remove it. He helpfully rewrote the Toyota instructions on how to do this. Here's his narrative:


After removing, rebuilding and re-installing the power steering pump on my 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser I thought it appropriate to supply some revised instructions from those found in the Toyota service manual to save you trouble in the future should you decide to do this yourself....

Toyota Instructions: "Remove high pressure line banjo fitting"

Revised Instructions: "Remove various unspecified wires and other under under hood equipment to make the high pressure banjo fitting visible. After determining that you can't get closer than 24" to the fitting, take a trip to Auotzone and see if you can get a bulk pack of socket drive extensions. Once discovering the fitting is unmovable with conventional tools, use an impact wrench to spin the incorrect fitting loose without succeeding in detaching the high pressure line. Compete further dis-assembly of the vehicle necessary to get a back-up wench on the incorrectly loosened fitting, heat with a blow torch being careful not to ignite the alternator wiring. Once the banjo fitting is loose, douse any random fires and burn your fingers on the fittings.

Toyota Instructions: "Clamp power steering pump drive gear in a vice. Be careful not to over tighten vice. Remove lock nut, woodruff key and gear."

Revised Instructions: "Clamp power steering pump drive gear in vice (not too tight). Attempt to remove nut. PS pump will jump out of vice landing on the concrete floor several times, the nut will still not be loose. Re-clamp in vice, lots tighter and hope you don't damage gear teeth. Heat lock nut until the pump seal starts to smoke before it can be removed with an impact wrench. Put a three jaw gear puller on the stuck pump gear and tighten until you distort the puller. Heat with torch to finish melting the input seal. Gear will still not come loose until you've destroyed your three jaw puller and had a good cursing session. Modify your pitman arm puller to fit this assembly. Re-heat gear well beyond acceptable limits, when it finally lets go keep body parts clear. The likely removal of temper in the gear will not be evident until after the customer has left your shop.


Toyota Instructions: "Remove rear pump ring body from the housing"


Revised Instructions: "You'll quickly discover that while the rear pump ring body must be removed, we've provided nothing to grab onto like a tapped hole or other attachment point as this would have raised our manufacturing cost. You'll have to build a custom tool to fit in the pump kidneys to pull this part out without scratching machine surfaces. If you do damage any of these surface the pump won't work after you've re-installed it. Good luck.
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Steve H.
Colo Springs, CO
'78 FJ40, '89 FJ62, '98 4Runner
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