Originally Posted by Firetacoma
So, I'm about to tear into this again in the next few weeks to try to fix my leak issues for once and for all. I was thinking my cover was warped so I ordered a used one from SOR... New is no longer available. The new used one, when set on a flat surface still rocks. How flat should it be? Should I tap a tap it to try to eliminate that wobble?
This time, no FIPG and I'm using a torque wrench that can do inch feet!
I have several used spares I'd have let you have your pick of for free. You should always post stuff like that up here first :-)
It should be really flat, and it is worth the time to make it so. You can work it with a ball pien hammer and a flat piece of wood underneath and the flat part of an anvil, alternately. This technique is also good for side covers and oil pans. I like to use either a 1x2 or a 1x4 as the "chisel" when doing this flattening.
You don't need a torque wrench, they are beyond useless on cork gasketed covers.
A technique that is really helpful on these gaskets is to smear some RTV (I like Permatex Ultra Blue) on the gaskets, and then let them get a little tacky, then stick the gasket to the cover (or oil pan as the case may be). This isn't so much to seal it but helps keep the gasket in position as you install the cover. Put some of the bolts through the cover while the RTV sets, to help keep it in place.
Speaking of RTV, make sure to smear some on the threads of the large bolts that go on the bottom.
One other thing about the timing cover install - I once installed a timing gear cover and it just didn't look right. A closer look showed that it wasn't exactly centered on the front of the crank, a leak (or worn out seal and then a leak) waiting to happen. I loosened up the bolts and wiggled the cover around until it was centered better, then retightened the bolts.
If you haven't already gotten them, I have extra spare seals and gaskets too. Good luck and happy cruisin'!