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Old 04-25-2014, 02:24 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Location: Denver CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
Still thinking about this... At first I thought I would put the 60 knuckles and brakes under the 40, along w/ the ARB, but I am thinking that the Pig is defintely heavier than the 40 and might benefit from having the 60 brakes instead, plus the steering arms from a 60 are probably more appropriate for a 55 (thinking back to that article in the TT about Ackerman Angle from a few years back).

Thoughts?
Another couple of thoughts in addition to my post above:
-I have heard of a V6 caliper swap that can be done for increased stopping power. I would have to research to see if that applies to 40s as well as 60s or if there was a year cutoff or what.

-I know at some point the front axle design details changed, specifically I am thinking about what Mark Algazy mentioned years ago at Cruise Moab how earlier axle housings had the welds ground down and later axle housings Toyota stopped doing that and the result was a stronger axle housing. All of this has me thinking that you should avoid putting the 74 axle under the 78 40, though I imagine both axles are the same design by that point. But maybe not. I can't remember what the "early" vs. "late" cutoff was in the Mark A. discussion, but we were busy trying to repair his '64 LWB pickup's front axle that had suffered a cracked housing due to the afore-mentioned ground-down welds. Luckily Kurt was there with his trailer so Mark's LWB could be towed to Moab and repaired with a real welder instead of the daisy-chain battery affair we took a shot with which promptly cracked as soon as it was let back down to the ground.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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