I run a Total Chaos idler and stock steering otherwise. My alignment is off just a little after Rubicon, but nothing broke. My steering wheel is a couple of degrees to the right of center and there's a slight pull to the right. But it hasn't been enough for me to get into a shop with it.
I run Sway-A-Way torsions, BTW. I have the suspension adjuster bolts turned enough to snug up the bolts and nuts in the saddles with the wheels off the ground, which is about 4 or so threads showing above the nut. I did have to turn the passenger's side an extra turn to level the truck. So even with an ARB and Budbuilt plates, the SAW torsions are too thick to have the lower arms relax to stock position without running the adjuster bolt completely loose, which I did not want. I'd rather have the bolt snug in the saddle than going from no tension to tension on them if the suspension is unweighed.
On the engine, Bill, my engine still does the same thing, erratic idle. I thought it was a TPS, so replaced it and was very careful about adjustment, no change. I did have a failed EFI temp sensor, replaced it, no change. I replaced the O2 sensor after I broke the engine in, thinking that all the crud burning might have fouled it, no change. I unplugged the cold start injector, that wasn't dripping.
The two things I've left are the AFM and fuel pressure regulator. I'm leaning toward FPR and that will be the next thing I try when I have some money to throw at it. I have my AFM adjusted 2 clicks richer than stock, but it doesn't seem to make any difference as far as the idle goes if that's at stock, 2 or 4 clicks richer.
'91 Toyota Pickup
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29
"They say the test of literary power is whether a man can write an inscription. I say, 'Can he name a kitten?'" -- Samuel Butler