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  #11  
Old 03-02-2009, 03:53 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Nicely done, and great photos.
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2009, 08:54 PM
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Rzeppa Rzeppa is offline
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Awesome documentation Ricardo. Blacksmithing is fun, isn't it!
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  #13  
Old 03-09-2009, 01:17 PM
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Default This past weekend's progress

Thanks for all the warm thoughts. Progress continued this past weekend, and things are getting closer to the end objective.

Saturday morning I went to the junk yard to look for a high pressure hose and return fitting for the low pressure side of the mini truck power steering pump. The low pressure size fitting was pretty easy to find. It is a 17mm x 1.5 thread and I found one in a 90s vintage Toyota 4x4 truck. It is the style that goes straight up and while I was hoping to find the style with the 90 degree bend it will work just fine. I also did some searching for a high pressure hose, but quickly realized I did not have a wrench big enough to disconnect the steering box end of the hose. The search for a high pressure hose was a long shot gambit at best because the threads of the Saginaw pump I pulled are 5/8 18" and the threads on my steering pump are 16mm x 1.5.

For those of you that are thinking about getting the Volvo pump because it has the wide groove pulley, you would actually be best off just grabbing the pulley from the pump and putting it on the generic Saginaw pump. This way you will have a pump with the 16mm x 1.5 threads for your high pressure hose. In my situation, if I get a custom high pressure hose made with different fittings at each end - When my Volvo pump goes belly up, to use my high pressure hose I'll have to replace it with the Volvo reman, at $100. So, I'm thinking that for the long haul I may be better off abandoning my Volvo pump in favor of the generic Saginaw. By doing this now, when my pump goes out I can replace it with another generic Saginaw for about 2/3 the cost of the Volvo pump. I will also have a more standard high pressure hose, which should be easier to find in a parts store should the need ever arise. This is one of those things that you just learn as you go through the process of putting things together, perhaps it can save someone a little frustration when they take on their swap.

After the boys swim meet, I got the new water pump installed. I did not have my bucket under the old water pump when I removed it from the engine block. Fortunately it did not take too long to sop up the mess. Most of the gasket came off on the pump so there was very little scraping needed on the block. With the pump off, I was able to run a flat razor blade down the block and scrape off the gunga from the side cover leak. As long as the cleanup had started, I went ahead and cleaned up the timing cover and around the front drive engine mount.

With the two row pulleys in place, I made the final adjustments on the power steering pump mounting. The pulley alignment is spot on and the pump is solidly mounted. That said, I'll likely end up going with a different Saginaw pump so that I can get 16mm x 1.5 threads. On the plus side, I was able to confirm that I don't have any clearance issues with my big air cleaner. It should not take long to fit another pump.

My largest time sink this weekend was re-routing the alternator wiring. The ground wires (white w/ black stripe) for the driver front head light and VSV had been spliced together with the ground wire running from the alternator to voltage regulator. In order to make sure I know where everything was going, I unwrapped all of the wires. To make the work easier, I removed the driver side fender. I decided to run the alternator to voltage regulator ground wire direct. The Haynes wiring diagram and information on MUD all indicate this is the way the ground wire should be. I also made sure the two remaining ground wires run independent of each other.

I used connectors with heat shrink. With all the wires unloomed, it was easy to clean up some loose ends from when I removed my VSV and speed sensor. My speed sensor connection wires are now wrapped up so they are not exposed to the elements; previously I had just taped up the ends and taped them to my bright light switch wiring. I also had spliced in some of the horseshoe shaped connectors for the voltage regulators, so i went ahead and swapped the connectors to the shrink-wrapped version. I do have some questions about the routing of the alternator/voltage regulator wiring that I posted up in a different thread. I am glad to have been able to remove the big ground wire splice and overall am very pleased with how much cleaner the wrapping of the wires is now that it has been redone.

Visually, there is not all that much to show for the weekends work, but here is a shot of what it looked like yesterday afternoon before I re-wrapped all the wires.
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  #14  
Old 03-09-2009, 01:36 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Very nice Ricardo, making good progress.

FWIW, following on your comment made somewhere about two different kinds of two-row pulleys, I have a water pump pulley that has a wide and narrow groove that I don't need. Looking at the one currently on my truck, it has two wide grooves. On the wide-narrow pulley, it looks like the outer row (closer to the rad) is the narrow one, which would align with the alternator on my '77. There would have to be a crank pulley that matches though, so don't know what use it is. I'm trying to get rid of it now that I know I don't need it.

It feels nice to have wiring all fixed up nice so it's not a rat nest eh!?
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2009, 06:13 PM
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Thanks for sharing all that valuable info Ricardo! I have not seen the thread pitch issue about the Volvo pumps written before, quite helpful! Nothing like doing the job and sharing the gotchas!
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:43 AM
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Default Power Steering is done

I still have a few lingering things to button up but the power steering conversion is done. Yesterday afternoon, I took it on an extended check out drive which started with a couple of errands close to home and finished with a high speed (for a 40) ride on the interstate.

Wow, the FJ40 is a bunch more fun to drive with power steering. It has always been fun, but being able to easily turn the wheels at slow speeds makes it feel sporty. Prior to the conversion I had some slop coming from the steering box, there is no slop in the power steering box. Of course the "new" power steering box is 25 years old, and I'm not expecting it will never develop issues.

An unexpected improvement from the conversion is a smoothness at higher speeds. Prior to the conversion as my truck exceeded 60 mph it would shake, shimmy and get louder. Not really a death wobble as I never felt as if I was about to loose control, but the kind of thing I noticed enough to put it on the list to figure out at some point. On the drive yesterday, I had no shake, shimmy all the way up to 70 mph.

I'll still post up many details on the conversion in this thread, but wanted to get it updated to let everyone know it is done.
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:47 AM
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70mph! Maybe I should convert to an F?
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  #18  
Old 03-29-2009, 09:48 AM
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RicardoJM RicardoJM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
70mph! Maybe I should convert to an F?
It was on the downhill, albeit a slight downhill.
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  #19  
Old 03-29-2009, 10:21 AM
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farnhamstj farnhamstj is offline
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Very nice write up. What's up with the 2"x4" tube welded to the front cross member? behind the front bumper. Looks like something from Thomas the Train? Fishing rod carrier? Beer holder? Old plow mount?
How about a pic of the mounted mini-box. I'm only familiar with saganaw conversions. Drilling the front cross member and such.
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  #20  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:03 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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wow ricardo, maybe that's where my high-speed shimmy comes from too, seeing as my steering box is also loose! i'm even more excited to get my steering (started and) done to maybe experience the same thing!

BTW jacket, i got my 40 up to about 80 today on i-25 coming down into castle rock, but my tach was showing i was turning 4000 rpms, so i slowed it down a touch

glad to see you got all the issues figured out and got it done!
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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