Rising Sun Member Forums  

Go Back   Rising Sun Member Forums > Toyota 4x4 > General Chit Chat

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old 11-02-2009, 02:32 PM
Red_Chili's Avatar
Red_Chili Red_Chili is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Littleton CO
Posts: 8,409
Default

Make the tubing a little more robust and you have a roll cage too. For those times when you just slip off a mountain shelf road.
__________________
-Bill Morgan
Heb Dduw, heb ddim; Duw a digon
Abnormally aspirated
KDěRCH
Bio Page
I'm that gun-totin', farm-raised, evangelical, pro-environment, OHV ridin'/drivin', Southern civil rights pro-labor Liberal yo' momma told you couldn't possibly exist.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 11-02-2009, 02:44 PM
Tch2fly's Avatar
Tch2fly Tch2fly is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Peachtree City, Georgia
Posts: 929
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post

My other thought is just scrap that idea, and instead do an internal support cage of some type-so you've got a couple bars below the rack rails, and some legs that run down to the wheel wells/truck bed? In that situation your topper isn't really doing anything other than acting like a fiberglass washer for your RTT support system, and keeping the load from swaying side to side.... but all the load is transferred down to the truck bed. I kind of like this idea better.
I swear an internal support system was available from some manufacturer. I thought it was Rhino-Rack but can't find it in their on-line catalog. I have a hard copy catalog at home and will check it tonight.
__________________
Mike W.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 11-02-2009, 02:47 PM
MDH33's Avatar
MDH33 MDH33 is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Land of Corn
Posts: 5,802
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
I poked around Expedition Portal last night and found one guy who say his fiberglass cracking, another who said just a topper was causing the bed to spread.
Were those ARE toppers? I found a lot of happy ARE/RTT users on there and none had issues. Plus I'm thinking that the metal 5 foot beds on our rigs would be more rigid than longer beds or composite beds on later model Tacos. so maybe the spreading is a non-issue.

At any rate, I'm going to try it and I'll let you know how it holds up. I was hoping to get the ARE and tent mounted up before our Arizona/Utah trip later this month, but I will have to special order the topper with all the features I want and they said 3 weeks.
__________________
--Martin

'85 FJ60
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 11-02-2009, 03:11 PM
Bikeman Bikeman is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Highlands Ranch
Posts: 685
Default

How about Yakima cross bars/towers on the DC roof and leave the topper alone? The no-drill Q-Towers have proven themselves on gutterless roofs for years.
__________________
Mike


1997 FZJ80, White, Locked, deflared, 5.29'd, 4-5" lift, Fox's, DC shafts F/R, 35" AT's, Metal Tech front bumper w/ winch, custom tube rear bumper, SROR sliders, IPOR skid, Custom exhaust, Snorkel, Eezi-Awn 1600, Mark's Speedo Box.

2008 Subaru WRX Wagon, mods and lifted on 27's

2001 Honda XR400 with goodies
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 11-02-2009, 03:59 PM
MDH33's Avatar
MDH33 MDH33 is offline
Rising Sun Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Land of Corn
Posts: 5,802
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeman View Post
How about Yakima cross bars/towers on the DC roof and leave the topper alone? The no-drill Q-Towers have proven themselves on gutterless roofs for years.
Might be worth a try. Do you have 3 pair with clips I can borrow??
__________________
--Martin

'85 FJ60
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 11-02-2009, 04:10 PM
DaveInDenver's Avatar
DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Larimer County
Posts: 6,615
Default

You know, the internal skeleton idea, that is exactly how a WilderNest is built... There is a molded in steel frame that is pretty strong and does not flex much normally. In fact it only deflects about two inches when it must hold up the weight of a truck, so a few hundred lbs is no prob.
__________________
'91 Toyota Pickup
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29

"To live is to suffer, to survive is to find some meaning in the suffering." -- Friedrich Nietzsche
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 11-02-2009, 05:26 PM
Tch2fly's Avatar
Tch2fly Tch2fly is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Peachtree City, Georgia
Posts: 929
Default

Here is what I had seen, the Rhino-Rack Ute & Canopy Rack System
Name:  rr1.jpg
Views: 93
Size:  71.5 KB

Link to brouchure


When I was looking I came across this from ARB.

I am sure you can come up with something more cost effective but at least it shows proof of concept
__________________
Mike W.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 11-02-2009, 09:38 PM
nakman's Avatar
nakman nakman is offline
Rising Sun Commander
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: north side
Posts: 10,026
Default

Yes! that Rhino design, or the ARB one, that's what I'm talking about. Looks like the ARB one mounts to the side of the bed while the Rhino one goes all the way down? but the Rhino one just pokes through the topper with a big hole.. I think we can do better, but I like the approach..

edit: here's the thread where the guy mentions cracking, not sure if it's ARE though http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...ad.php?t=28567
__________________
99 uzj100, 05 525EXC

www.gamiviti.com

Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 11-02-2009, 09:59 PM
DaveInDenver's Avatar
DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
Hard Core 4+
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Larimer County
Posts: 6,615
Default

Seems like all you need is a rib that follows the contour of the inside of the shell that runs from bed rail to bed rail under each rack cross member. I'm seeing 3/4" tubing, a bender and welded plates on each end. Very much like a internal roll cage that fits snug under the shell. Tie the internal ribs to the topper ceiling and to the Yakima or Thule feet on the roof, with, I dunno, u-bolts or maybe tabs on the ribs. The fiberglass in a topper is pretty strong and the goal is just to minimize flex to keep it from cracking.

If it was me I would just mold in metal or wood reinforcement into the inside and ceiling of the fiberglass, but I could care less about appearance. You can see part of the 'Nest frame in this photo. There are 4 rectangular tubes, one at each corner, connected along the side with horizontal members over the windows. The whole thing is then covered in structural fiberglass.

__________________
'91 Toyota Pickup
'09 Kawasaki KLR650
'12 Gunnar Rockhound 29

"To live is to suffer, to survive is to find some meaning in the suffering." -- Friedrich Nietzsche
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 11-02-2009, 10:11 PM
nakman's Avatar
nakman nakman is offline
Rising Sun Commander
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: north side
Posts: 10,026
Default

Yeah now you're talking Dave, bent 3/4" tubing with some feet would be sweet, heck I'd even settle for miter cut 1" square... the front legs would just rest on the wheel wells, the ones in back would tuck nicely between the windows on the way down.
Attached Images
    
__________________
99 uzj100, 05 525EXC

www.gamiviti.com

Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.