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  #31  
Old 07-04-2006, 01:31 PM
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Great numbers. Did you reset it between each cyl. Some testers need to be and some don't.

So are you up and running again?
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  #32  
Old 07-04-2006, 02:31 PM
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unfortunately, no....still running very hot....

We did reset the guage between cylinders..
Then we squirted a little oil in each cylinder and the compression readings went up to about 130-135 per cylinder - I know this may mean that the rings aren't seated correctly - would this happen on a fresh rebuild, and the rings still breaking in?
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Old 07-04-2006, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 74fj40
Then we squirted a little oil in each cylinder and the compression readings went up to about 130-135 per cylinder - I know this may mean that the rings aren't seated correctly - would this happen on a fresh rebuild, and the rings still breaking in?
It's possible, how many miles on the rebuild?
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  #34  
Old 07-04-2006, 04:22 PM
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Maybe 400....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa
It's possible, how many miles on the rebuild?
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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  #35  
Old 07-14-2006, 08:58 AM
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I just re-read the original post, where it said that it had a water pump and fan clutch from a 60 - which would mean a couple things. 60s have an oil cooler and an extra hose fitting for the oil cooler. What happened to that? Is it blocked or do you have an oil cooler (with corresponding t-stat housing with hose fitting)?

And, fan clutches are notorious for not working properly. Even new ones. Mark Whatley has written about how all the aftermarket fan clutches he's been getting lately are too small to be effective for a 2F and he's gone back to OEM. Used ones can have worn out silicone fluid or none from leaking out. They can be rebuilt and new fluid is available from dealer. I've seen more stories about overheating problems solved by replacing/rebuilding/replenishing the fluid in the fan clutch solved overheating problems in a stock setup than any other cause.
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  #36  
Old 07-14-2006, 09:30 AM
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Sorry - should have updated the thread - we removed the newer water pump and replaced it with the old and an 8 blade direct drive fan.
Made no difference in the temps....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rzeppa
I just re-read the original post, where it said that it had a water pump and fan clutch from a 60 - which would mean a couple things. 60s have an oil cooler and an extra hose fitting for the oil cooler. What happened to that? Is it blocked or do you have an oil cooler (with corresponding t-stat housing with hose fitting)?

And, fan clutches are notorious for not working properly. Even new ones. Mark Whatley has written about how all the aftermarket fan clutches he's been getting lately are too small to be effective for a 2F and he's gone back to OEM. Used ones can have worn out silicone fluid or none from leaking out. They can be rebuilt and new fluid is available from dealer. I've seen more stories about overheating problems solved by replacing/rebuilding/replenishing the fluid in the fan clutch solved overheating problems in a stock setup than any other cause.
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1997 Honda civic DX( all stock DD)
1972 Toyota FJ40(4" lift, FJ60 axles, FJ60 4speed with split case, 35's, Detroit locker rear, Lockright front, Marlin Highsteer, 105"WB, Saginaw with GM tilt column, soon to have: 30spline longfields, inners/outters, toybox.
1967 Porsche 912(100% stock)


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