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  #21  
Old 03-23-2010, 04:39 PM
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Tom,

With that low level of miles on it, and if it's not burning oil (like worn valve guides) then I wouldn't bother replacing the head. The actual performance benefit you get from the EB head is marginal. I put mine on because my stock head was shot (and the EM bolt holes were severely stripped out) and I got the head used but almost new for virtually nothing.

If you put in the 261 C cam we can do that without pulling your head, but you will need to get the RV cam valve springs & retainers. With the adaptor to shoot air into your cylinders we should be able to replace the valve springs too without pulling the head.

I don't know enough about 22RE's yet to detrmine if it's worth the coin to mess with the upgraded TB.

Dave-Did you see this from the website link Tom sent? If you do the TB upgrade like you did, they recommend: " Depending on the amount of miles on your vehicle, it is recommended to consider upgrading fuel injectors to a matched and flowed set. "

I'm still thinking you have a fueling issue, I would start with checking the injectors. It just seems like a cam issue would be 100% consistent, missing the same way every time when it's sitting there idling. Plus unless the cam timing is WAY off it should have nothing to do with hard starting.
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  #22  
Old 03-23-2010, 06:22 PM
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Also, I seem to remember reading on Prate about an issue with 22RE injector harnesses. Seems like it's common to get intermittent connections to the injectors that cause lots of weird problems. They suggest you pull everything out where you can see it and then resolder all of the connections.
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  #23  
Old 03-23-2010, 08:13 PM
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Dave,
I have the header and intake already. I just need the cam and maybe TB.

Randy,
I will check and see what the price is for the parts needed. I will call them in the morning. May see if there are less expensive folks out there too. May need to do this before Moab
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  #24  
Old 03-23-2010, 08:15 PM
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if it truly is a overlaying valve issue you could easilly tell by putting each cylinder at TDC.. i would verify that by looking thought the sparkplug tube's ( i have a bore scope if ya need to borrow) then use this leak down tester (which i also have, and you can also borrow) and if you have air comming out your exhaust or intake.. your timing is off.. and your valves are off .. quick and easy and all you have to do is remove your spark plug and you know were to look.. and you know your timing is off. either by your chain or your vavles are out of adjustment.. if you dont ahve any air then your know its more than likely a fuel issue
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  #25  
Old 03-23-2010, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Also, I seem to remember reading on Prate about an issue with 22RE injector harnesses. Seems like it's common to get intermittent connections to the injectors that cause lots of weird problems. They suggest you pull everything out where you can see it and then resolder all of the connections.
It's the ground connection crimp, and from what I read it is fairly high up in the harness. But that could easily explain your issues since Randy brings it up.

Tell ya what, though... have you called Ted and described your symptoms? Ted and Tod are a wealth of 22RE knowledge.
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  #26  
Old 03-24-2010, 10:41 AM
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I can tell you this, even though my enginebuilder head only had a few thousand miles on it, it had one of the worst valve seatings jobs on it I had seen. If I didn't spot it and have the machine shop re-do the valves properly, I would have ended up with lower compression on some cylinders due to the poor seating.

I still think you have a fuel related issue though. If you have a snotty injector that isn't closing cleanly it could be dribbling fuel during the exhaust stroke which would explain black crap out of the tail pipe even though your plugs are burning clean. That could also give you the occassional pop or backfire too. Didn't you also say you thought you were getting some post combustion burning in the exhaust manifold too?
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