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  #21  
Old 07-06-2010, 11:02 AM
MattFJ40 MattFJ40 is offline
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There is a fair amount of residue on the block from the old head gasket. Seems the fel-pro gasket is made of some material that basically melts (or seems that way). I purchased some foam gasket remover from an auto store and tried to scrape it off with a razor with little success. I was hunched over the block so long my back went out again. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to get off tough residue on the block from the gasket?
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  #22  
Old 07-06-2010, 02:20 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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My buddy at the Toyota dealer uses small (2"-3" dia) green Scotchbrite pads on a air-die-grinder deal, and it leaves a nice surface finish on both aluminum and iron - and removes all head gasket residue. I would not use it on newer heads that use MLS gaskets and require a fairly exact surface finish. I have seen these disks sold at Checker and even Walmart.
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  #23  
Old 07-06-2010, 04:47 PM
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I use 3M abrasive wheels. They are the shazzam!

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  #24  
Old 07-06-2010, 05:22 PM
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It's a 3 step process for me. I use a good sharp gasket scraper tool first to get off as much of the big stuff as possible. Then I use a single edge razor blade to get off the next layer. Then I use an abrasive wheel like jeff recommended to finsih it off and get everything shiny.

The only reason I don't go straight to the abrasive wheel is, I have seen times when a chunk of gasket is really stuck on and the abrasive wheel is starting to wear it down but the gasket piece starts to look the same color/texture as the rest of the head and you end up missing it. This inevitably results in a head gasket leak, I also had the same thing happen to me on a differential gasket. Just my .02.
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  #25  
Old 07-25-2010, 04:46 PM
MattFJ40 MattFJ40 is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I got most of the gasket off and Robbie finished up the job.

So the motor is back together now. Robbie and I learned a couple of new things about my specifiic year of FJ40. An 11/73 is a 74 model year. It has special head bolt lengths (6 1/4 inch long). Toy discontinued the bolts and I could only find used ones from Spector ($12 each and not all the bolts were usable that they sent). Also, the improved F motor has a cam that is more like the 2F. So Man-A-Fre sent the wrong cam. Good news was that Robbie knew a guy that could drill the correct oil holes in the cam Man-A-Fre sent. Man-A-Fre said they weren't going to replace the cam unless I paid to ship it back, then they would inspect....it was going to take 1-2 weeks according to them if we didn't drill the holes ourselves. Now I am trying to get them to pay the machine shop work. What a pain. Anyway, make sure if you order the cam you inspect it. It is easy to miss.
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Old 07-25-2010, 04:51 PM
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Glad to hear its coming together. Robbie can be a clever fellow in getting things done
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  #27  
Old 07-25-2010, 04:54 PM
MattFJ40 MattFJ40 is offline
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Here is a pic of the old and new cam.
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  #28  
Old 07-25-2010, 05:00 PM
MattFJ40 MattFJ40 is offline
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We had no oil pressure to the top end when Robbie put the motor together. Had to take it back apart to find the missing/wrong oil holes. Lots of extra work and headaches. Good news is that after Robbie finished up my motor runs better than ever. Robbie does great work. I didn't know my motor should be that quiet. Especially at around 2,000 rpms it is so smooth now. It used to run so rough. Guess I never knew how it should sound until now.

Running hot right now for some reason, but I am working on that. Also, I had Robbie install a speedi sleeve on the transfer rear output. That seemed to make it leak more. Not sure why as the seal was only 300 miles old. Robbie suggested I pull the seal and use a Toy part instead of the knock-off. I went to Coney Flats this weekend and it is leaking even more now so I will have to get that fixed. I have replaced the myself several times already so any suggestions would be helpful. I even had a guy install it for me last time. Guess having Robbie do it is my next step.
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  #29  
Old 07-26-2010, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattFJ40 View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions. I got most of the gasket off and Robbie finished up the job.

So the motor is back together now. Robbie and I learned a couple of new things about my specifiic year of FJ40. An 11/73 is a 74 model year. It has special head bolt lengths (6 1/4 inch long). Toy discontinued the bolts and I could only find used ones from Spector ($12 each and not all the bolts were usable that they sent). Also, the improved F motor has a cam that is more like the 2F. So Man-A-Fre sent the wrong cam. Good news was that Robbie knew a guy that could drill the correct oil holes in the cam Man-A-Fre sent. Man-A-Fre said they weren't going to replace the cam unless I paid to ship it back, then they would inspect....it was going to take 1-2 weeks according to them if we didn't drill the holes ourselves. Now I am trying to get them to pay the machine shop work. What a pain. Anyway, make sure if you order the cam you inspect it. It is easy to miss.
That is correct, the 1974 F was a transition year. It still had many of the attributes of the prior F engines including bore and stamped rocker cover, but in that year they changed the oiling plumbing and ran the rocker oil up through the tower as normal for 2Fs. One of the ways you can spot that year's F is that the oil filter will be mounted in the 2F location in front of the distributor on the block, instead of the F location on the bracket on the intake manifold with the hoses that run to and from the block.

The F oiling scheme oils the rocker through the cross drilled holes in the cam #2 journal where it goes up to the rocker in a tube to a banjo fitting, while the 2F oiling system it gets pumped through cam journal #3 directly up through galleries in the block and rocker tower.

Most aftermarket cams I have seen are cross drilled in both #2 and #3 journals so they can be used in either F or 2F applications. I am little surprised MAF didn't know better.
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  #30  
Old 07-26-2010, 11:42 AM
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You can try replacing the output seal with an OEM seal. If you do, be sure and put high oil resistant silicone (grey or super black) on the output shaft splines. Some times that can be the source of your leak even if the seal is fine.

If that doesn't work you can send your output shaft seal housing to a guy on MUD who goes by the forum name of MUDRAK. He machines out the housing and then installs double seals into it.
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