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  #11  
Old 08-18-2010, 11:43 AM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
Pardon my ignorance: why do I need this? It's a fuse for the fuse box?
Fuses, fusible links and circuit breakers protect your wire should the insulation fail because the combined load exceeds the conductor's rating or a short. No matter how it happens, if the feed conductor is asked to carry more current than it's capable, it heats up. Heat causes fires. If you used a fuse or breaker that is also fine, fusible links are convenient because they are usually easier to work with in tight spots. Their downside is they only work once and might be a bit more PITA to fix compared to pushing reset or replacing a fuse.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 08-18-2010 at 12:57 PM.
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Old 08-18-2010, 12:28 PM
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corsair23 corsair23 is offline
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Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
I didn't do this -- should I get one? Where would I find such an item?

Pardon my ignorance: why do I need this? It's a fuse for the fuse box?
Dave's got you covered on the need aspect. As for where to find what you need it will depend on what you decided to go with. In my case I found a bunch of stuff on sale online from an audio company years ago and got my wire, fuses, battery terminals, etc. from then. I went with the ANL type fuse (toward the bottom of the page) and a water resistant style holder like this. I fused thise based on my max load now off the block + some to account for future needs. These things you could pick up online or any audio store like Quality Audio on County Line Rd etc.

I was really interested in going the circuit breaker route (I think Corbet went this route and did a write up on it here) because you don't have to worry about mucking with fuses and can shut off power to the entire aux block a little easier if needed. But, I already had the stuff mentioned above so for once in my life I decided to use what I already bought

For those interested, here was the write up I did on MUD: LINK

Just scroll to the bottom as the thread started off as a "how to remove the center console" question. No shots of the inline fuse at the battery though but the fuse sits right on the back side of the battery box, nice and close to the battery.
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  #13  
Old 08-18-2010, 12:56 PM
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Does anyone know if using one of the AM1 or AM2 fusible links would be a good fit for an aux fuse box? I'm not sure what they are rated to.

I hadn't even considered putting one in (good idea!), but it seems that having an extra OEM fusible link in the system might come in handy if you blow one in the main system for the engine? Then you are just without say extra lights and such if you swap them out. Just a thought...though I suppose that they are only 10 bucks or something and I could just buy extra's anway
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  #14  
Old 08-18-2010, 01:01 PM
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DaveInDenver DaveInDenver is offline
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I think AM1 is a 50A fusible link. Don't use that as gospel. If so, then it would be fine to protect about a 8AWG or larger wire.
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  #15  
Old 08-18-2010, 01:46 PM
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I would use a regular old in-line fuse holder that uses a blade type fuse instead of a fusible link. It's cheap and easy to buy spare fuses and easy to determine if you have a blown fuse. Plus you can buy the various sizes of in-line fuse holders at WalMart, Checker, Autozone, etc.
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Old 08-18-2010, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
I would use a regular old in-line fuse holder that uses a blade type fuse instead of a fusible link. It's cheap and easy to buy spare fuses and easy to determine if you have a blown fuse. Plus you can buy the various sizes of in-line fuse holders at WalMart, Checker, Autozone, etc.
I agree, fuses makes sense. Problem is that the biggest ATC type blade fuse is 40A and most of those molded inline holders are 10AWG or smaller, so maybe 30A max. That might or might not work, but is fairly limiting (particularly if you are running a 12 position fuse block) or just want to feed with something heavier to minimize voltage drop. The Maxi or FLB type fuses are available in higher currents, but unfortunately aren't usually easy to find at Autozone and what-not, although you can get them at NAPA, car audio and marine shops.
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  #17  
Old 08-18-2010, 03:52 PM
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I used one of these bad boys:

http://www.amazon.com/STINGER-SCBM10.../dp/B002LARRTE

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