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  #11  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:43 PM
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It does help with the AC off (doesnt heat up as quickly) but it will overheat either way.
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Old 08-23-2010, 08:44 PM
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When you say the temps keep going up and won't stop, maybe see if they will stop. X2 on the AC.
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  #13  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:44 PM
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Did you replace the fluid in the fan clutch? There is a thread on mud about the Mod. I did not change the temp setting screws, but replaced the fluid with 8,000 CST I bought at a Remote Control model shop. Noticed a big difference. I would use 10,000 CST next time.

Do you have dual batteries, lights or something else in front of the grill to restrict airflow?

You can add an aux fan, I did because I have a packed engine bay with dual batts and an SC

Edit - I see you took off your PIAAs. I use to have to take mine off when towing over the mtn passes before I got my aux fan
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  #14  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
If the cat is restricted, the manifold vacuum should drop to near zero well before wide open throttle and make the truck noticeably slower than normal.

An issue that could show up on 60s (not sure about 80s) is a collapsing lower rad hose that restricts flow. A new lower hose or adding the internal spring to it solved that issue.
I read about the lower rad hose, is there a way to check it or do i just have to replace it?
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  #15  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:47 PM
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also, is your overflow bottle filled to the line with rad fluid?
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  #16  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikeman View Post
When you say the temps keep going up and won't stop, maybe see if they will stop. X2 on the AC.
You mean just keep driving it and see how hot it will get? I'm worried ill blow the HG? I went on a night run to Switzerland two nights ago and i had both heaters on high going up sugerloaf, i got up to 220 before i pulled over and let it cool down.
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:55 PM
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You state that the cooling was better with the new Radiator from Performance, is it the aluminum single row radiator they sell? I would also up grade the Fluid in the Blue fan clutch. Typically the water pump does not fail in the manor that you are thinking about, where it does not push fluid.
As for the lower radiator hose, if the hose is real old and soft, then I think they could suck it close, but for the most part, the hose is short and sturdy. I have not seen any 80 series stuff suck the lower hose to the point of closeing off.
But I do think you have a different issue. How long did you perform the Bubble test and at what RPM?
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2010, 08:55 PM
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How about an air pocket, did you "burp" the system?
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2010, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post
Did you replace the fluid in the fan clutch? There is a thread on mud about the Mod. I did not change the temp setting screws, but replaced the fluid with 8,000 CST I bought at a Remote Control model shop. Noticed a big difference. I would use 10,000 CST next time.

Do you have dual batteries, lights or something else in front of the grill to restrict airflow?

You can add an aux fan, I did because I have a packed engine bay with dual batts and an SC

Edit - I see you took off your PIAAs. I use to have to take mine off when towing over the mtn passes before I got my aux fan
I didnt mess with the fan clutch, i've read about the fluid but figured i wouldn't need it with all this new stuff. Guess ill have to look into it, i can feel it kick in so i know its locking up, it would help if it locked up earlier i suppose. Truck is totally stock, i really didnt see any difference when i took the PIAA's off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Romer View Post
also, is your overflow bottle filled to the line with rad fluid?
Yep its a little less than full (line).
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2010, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powderpig View Post
You state that the cooling was better with the new Radiator from Performance, is it the aluminum single row radiator they sell? I would also up grade the Fluid in the Blue fan clutch. Typically the water pump does not fail in the manor that you are thinking about, where it does not push fluid.
As for the lower radiator hose, if the hose is real old and soft, then I think they could suck it close, but for the most part, the hose is short and sturdy. I have not seen any 80 series stuff suck the lower hose to the point of closeing off.
But I do think you have a different issue. How long did you perform the Bubble test and at what RPM?
Definitely the new radiator helps. Its the only radiator they sell 93-97, it's plastic/Aluminum. I'll go get some fluid for the fan clutch and try filling it up.

As for the bubble test, I got the truck up to temp pulled over, and watched for bubbles i would rev the motor but never saw any. My oil is clean, and so is the coolant.
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