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  #11  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
Extended the back drive shaft but no double cardan CV needed. No grinding on the front shaft needed.
If you didn't rotate your pinion up to point at your TC and you are happy with the driveline angle (a little vibration), then no double cardan is needed.

If you did rotate the pinion up you can get by without a double cardan CV if you dont mind driveline vibration and reduced U joint life.

As far as the front yoke that depends on what year rig your driveshaft is out of. The older ones require minor grinding in the valleys to have enough clearance to not bind at full droop if the other wheel is stuffed.

If you never wheel your rig hard enough to cause that condition then it's probably not a concern.
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  #12  
Old 08-26-2010, 11:59 AM
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If you did rotate the pinion up you can get by without a double cardan CV if you dont mind driveline vibration and reduced U joint life.
No rotation. Driveshaft and U-joins have been fine since 2001. Knock on wood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
If you never wheel your rig hard enough to cause that condition then it's probably not a concern.
Used to be my wheeler. Laid it on its side once. Also, broke a rear axle shaft. Since building the 80, I don't wheel my 40 as hard as I used to, though.
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  #13  
Old 08-26-2010, 12:46 PM
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Dr. Schlegs, have you read my and TJ's writeups on FJ60 power steering? They go through all the steps pretty well, in addition to the TT article...

Do you have a later model 2F block that will accept the FJ60 power steering pump? Or how do you know a Toyota pump will mount to your block?

TJ, I am running a 70 series drag link tube on my conversion currently, but it wasn't cheap and I haven't checked your thread in a while. I'll take a look at it and see what you've added.
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  #14  
Old 08-26-2010, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
Kevin, you should come drive my 40 for a day. Sprung under. 4" lift and 33" tires. Extended the back drive shaft but no double cardan CV needed. No grinding on the front shaft needed. Did not do a shackle reversal. Did put in some 4 degree shims in the front axle packs (cut and turn is better, as Randy says, but the shims work fine). Also, I have Saginaw PS, which is a great upgrade.
My 4" SUA is similar to Matt's, 60 series PS vs. Sag.
I flipped my rear spring pack to gain 4" of wheel base.

I do not see any need to do a shackle reversal. Jim Chenoweth is not a fan of these either, as he has seen the front driveshaft pogo-stick into the t-case and effectively destroy the t-case in a shackle-reversal rig.
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  #15  
Old 08-26-2010, 04:43 PM
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Meh, never worry about steering again:

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/Toyota...r-NO-PUMP.html

THAT is a power steering conversion.

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  #16  
Old 08-26-2010, 04:45 PM
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In way of the lift, I like the stance that FJBrady's 40 has. He has a 4" Skyjacker and a 1" body lift. I figure 4" would be good enough for me to fit 35s under it. I am not looking to lenghten the wheelbase. I would like to get an OME kit however as it is the shiznit. MAF has a 4" kit using 2.5" OME springs, and longer shackles and what not. I don't think OME has a 4" kit like Skyjacker does.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2010, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Meh, never worry about steering again:

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/Toyota...r-NO-PUMP.html

THAT is a power steering conversion.

When I do rear steer in the 80, this is the kit I will definitely be going with.
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'96 FZJ-80 - Borla Exhaust, ARB w/ M8000, OME 3" lift, sliders, 305 BFG KM2, 4.88's and ARBs, and usually dog hair.

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  #18  
Old 08-26-2010, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hulk View Post
No rotation. Driveshaft and U-joins have been fine since 2001. Knock on wood.
If you didn't rotate the pinion up then you don't want/need a double cardan, a regular single u joint on each end shaft is actually the way to go.
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2010, 06:44 PM
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the nuclearlemon ran 4" skyjacker with extended shackles for years, no dc shaft required. did have to put 4degree shims in the front. i don't know anyone who required a dc shaft with the lift because the ujoint angles don't change. i loved the skyjacker springs, as did a few friends and they must've held up because i met a guy at cruise moab four or five years back (when we held it at that picky campground) that is still running the springs. i was number three to purchase the 4" skyjacker springs back in 91 or so. my buddy steve bought the first set made and my buddy lane bought the second set made.

i would not, however, run their shocks. i had they eye snap off one, and i know two others that had the eyes snap off. i did flip the rear springs for a bit more wheelbase (garners a couple inches) and a p.o. had already put a shackle reversal in. ran it with 35s for a while, but mainly 33s for better road (couldn't afford to do gears). i did have the front shaft extended a couple of inches a few years later. fenders were already cut in the rear from a p.o. bushwacker mod.

reference pics, stock with sagging springs, 2 1/2" kidney busters (rancho), 4" skyjackers, 4" skyjackers and nuclearlemon paint. 33" tires in all but stock
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  #20  
Old 08-27-2010, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PabloCruise View Post
I do not see any need to do a shackle reversal. Jim Chenoweth is not a fan of these either, as he has seen the front driveshaft pogo-stick into the t-case and effectively destroy the t-case in a shackle-reversal rig.
I never said reversed shackles were mandatory, but I recommend them based on my personal experience. They greatly improve the ride quality, improve front axle traction and reduce wheel hop.

I suppose if you hit a rock dead on with your diff at 20 mph it could break something. But at least in my case, with the proper length drive shaft with long travel splines I've never had an issue and it's been wheeled hard on pretty rough trails.

On MUD this is one of those Ford vs Chevy type discussions, lots of people with opinions on both sides of the arguement. I'm simply giving my opinion.
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