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Old 09-10-2010, 07:41 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Default Tips/tricks for PHH?

My dad is in the middle of his PHH replacement with the blue silicone hoses...he says he can't get to one of the clamps because it basically needs a 90 degree-bent needle nose pliers to get to it.

Any tips/tricks to solve this problem? Or should he get the MAPP gas out?
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:55 PM
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IIRC I think some people were using a dremmel to cut that clamp off?
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Old 09-10-2010, 10:25 PM
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Matt,

I've done both the LX and the 80. The PHH just plain sucks for the most part due the really crappy location.

Obviously the first things are to remove the DS tire and the wheel well skirting so you have a nice sitting spot. Then, if he hasn't done so I would highly suggest that he remove the starter. Yeah, it is more work and can be a PITA to get out itself, but you have a ton more room to work. You CAN get an impact wrench in there to loosen the starter bolt on the front side. Tricks here are to move the AT dipstick tube out of the way (remove the dip stick first though ) at that is just a couple bolts IIRC. Then there is a support member or something or other toward the front of the wheel well and a couple bolts and that is out of the way.

If he can figure out a way to get to the hard pipe bolts (one top, one bottom) great. I never could so I did both trucks without being able to swing the hard pipe but using gentle bending makes the replacement possible. As I recall you don't want to take then all the way out, just loose. At least on one of them.

For the "tuna can" clamp I used pliers and a small flat head screwdriver to spin the clamp a little to start loosening it and the punched the "pin" out and that was it for that clamp.

For the spring clamp on the block nipple that the Toyota people were oh so nice to insure the protrusions were pointing straight back so you can't grab them there are a couple options.

One option as Corey mentions is to CAREFULLY cut it with a dremmel. You don't have to cut all the way through it, just enough so you can bend the living sh%& out of it and pull it off the block nipple - This was how I tackled the LX's PHH

Another option is to clamp on the old PHH with some vice grips or something and try to spin the hose and clamp until you can get to the clamp's protrusions. If need be you can slice the old hose so you can grab the end of it to spin.

Another option is to use some angled needle nosed pliers or even a big flat head screwdriver to try and spin the clamp. This trick worked for me on the 80 after I pondered it a bit. I learned a lot from doing the LX PHH.

Another option I've read people have tried but I'm not so sure it works is to use the Sears hose clamp removal tool. I have that tool and didn't even bother trying to use it as I didn't think you could get the end of the tool in the space.


A few more thoughts. Perfect time to rebuild the starter if it hasn't been done in a long while and you remove it. Perfect time to do a coolant flush, although you really don't loose much coolant when replacing the PHH.

When trying to get the new hose on, things typically don't get a whole lot better. IIRC I had the most success by putting the new hose on the block nipple first and then ramming the tube into place. Just don't forget to put the clamps on first (DAMHIK). Use your favorite lubricant to "grease" up the tube and pipe to make installation easier. Believe it or not based on my readings I just bought some generic KY Jelly at King Soopers and that seemed to work fine and it is "water soluable"

Oh, and tell him to be careful of the knock sensor just in front (toward the front of the truck) of the PHH area. More than one person has fubarred that and then had one more thing to fix. Sort of like the radiator overflow/breather outlet on top of the radiator when changing the spark plugs

There are a ton of hints/suggestions in the numerous PHH threads on MUD. I read them all and used what ones worked best for me on the fly.

The nice thing, once he gets this done, he'll never have to worry about it again.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:55 PM
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tell him go buy these
i bought a pair from sears and it was the only way to get that clamp off for me ... my hands were too big otherwise

Name:  hoseclamp.jpg
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i think its on mud too on one of them threads
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:14 AM
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Sell the truck, I still cannot believe how bad of a job that was. I found I could get my arm in from the bottom with minimal cussing but still had to work on that hose clamp for a few hours before it broke off. It it helps any, the new hose went on in about 4 min.
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treerootCO View Post
Sell the truck, I still cannot believe how bad of a job that was. I found I could get my arm in from the bottom with minimal cussing but still had to work on that hose clamp for a few hours before it broke off. It it helps any, the new hose went on in about 4 min.
Yes, yes, I could get him to sell it to me, yes, and then his problems would be solved and I would have a turbo'd 80 series! Bwa ha ha ha ha ha! Brilliant!

...but then I would have to do the PHH...

...but then again I might have to do it anyway, from the sounds of it. That's okay, I like wrenching (and by wrenching I mean crawling under a 6000 lb. assembly of metal and reaching up into dark, greasy, unknown spaces like a contortionist to reach a $0.20 piece of metal that needs to come off to replace a 2" long piece of rubber)
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:08 PM
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Pull the cylinder head off and do the HG at the same time(because you will likely need to replace it too). Makes getting to the PHH much easier.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:13 PM
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Pay Robbie to do it for you my to cents..
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:41 PM
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Found a trick that worked awesome. Looped a piece of wire over the small tang of the PHH clamp, pulled down and it rotated the whole clamp down to where I could get a vice grips on it. Took 10 seconds.

Now I just have to get the lower coolant pipe bolt loose so I can rotate the pipe back and out of the way...any tricks for that? I couldn't get good leverage to try and bend the pipe enough to get it out of the way...maybe I should try the wire trick for that too
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 09-19-2010, 11:12 PM
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I never touched the bolt on the back of the intake manifold. As long as you can cut the old rubber off, the new rubber slips on with a little soap.
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