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Old 09-19-2010, 08:50 PM
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Default Red or Green coolant in '96 80 series?

When my dad bought his '96 80, it had green coolant in it. Did it come that way from the factory and should he keep putting green in it, or should he flush it and put Toyota red in it? Dave had this input from a couple years ago:
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/foru...8&postcount=14

But I wasn't sure what to tell him.
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Old 09-19-2010, 09:23 PM
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It was red to start with and likely changed to green along the way. I'd just drain it, flush and refill with green. I have red in mine but don't have a strong reason to use one or the other except that changing from one to the other should involve a through flush to keep the two from mixing.
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Old 09-20-2010, 01:37 AM
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After discussing this with Robbie I wish I had swapped to green...But, both my 80 and the LX had red so that is what they are still running...

A big bonus IMO, and others based on discussions, for running green coolant is that you can pretty much find it anywhere should you need some in a pinch. Not so with Toyota Red. And we all know about the stories of what mixing red and green will do
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
changing from one to the other should involve a through flush to keep the two from mixing.
x2, except that I'd go one further and say that even if its got green in it now, I'd still do a complete flush unless you know its been done before. I'd personally stick with green for the reasons Jeff mentioned; its much easier to come by in a pinch.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:17 AM
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So after reading over some threads I think I'll stick with the green coolant in the 80. Here's what 4 flushes looks like:


Any wisdom on current green? Will any green do? They all used to say Prestone green, but I guess there is a difference between silicate and non-silicate green...

How about this (Prestone)?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4188&ppt=C0059

Or this (Peak)?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4188&ppt=C0059

or even this (O Reilly house brand)?
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4188&ppt=C0059

Any real difference among these?
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:28 AM
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RED, I went with red when i replaced the rad in the 70. Toyota doesn't have silicon silicates, draw your own conclusions. I don't run green, orange or anything else in cruisers. I've never needed to add coolant on the trail and if you do mixing will still get you home to flush and fill.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:34 AM
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You can't trust the color anymore, there is hybrid OAT green now. HOAT is what Toyota Red is. The old green used to mean straight up inorganic silicated ethylene glycol G-05 but now some brands, like Honda, have an OAT green. In a Honda the two green coolants would not be compatible. So I'm not sure what you get anymore without reading the label at the NAPA and consulting your chemical handbook.

My Taco had green in it when I bought it. No one could tell me if it was OAT green or not so the dealer flushed and refilled with Toyota red. I did another flush and fill with Toyota pink recently. In this case I want the coolant to be uniform and the only way it seems you can guarantee formulation is to either pay for the overpriced Toyota red or pink or do a complete conversion to Prestone.

Since I do not want silicates in my engine I have decided to swallow the Mama Toyoda price and I did a very early flush because I've seen with my own eyes the gray sludge you get with incompatible IAT and OAT types are mixed.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
RED, I went with red when i replaced the rad in the 70. Toyota doesn't have silicon silicates, draw your own conclusions. I don't run green, orange or anything else in cruisers. I've never needed to add coolant on the trail and if you do mixing will still get you home to flush and fill.
Even in your 40?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
You can't trust the color anymore, there is hybrid OAT green now. HOAT is what Toyota Red is. The old green used to mean straight up inorganic silicated ethylene glycol G-05 but now some brands, like Honda, have an OAT green. In a Honda the two green coolants would not be compatible. So I'm not sure what you get anymore without reading the label at the NAPA and consulting your chemical handbook.

My Taco had green in it when I bought it. No one could tell me if it was OAT green or not so the dealer flushed and refilled with Toyota red. I did another flush and fill with Toyota pink recently. In this case I want the coolant to be uniform and the only way it seems you can guarantee formulation is to either pay for the overpriced Toyota red or pink or do a complete conversion to Prestone.

Since I do not want silicates in my engine I have decided to swallow the Mama Toyoda price and I did a very early flush because I've seen with my own eyes the gray sludge you get with incompatible IAT and OAT types are mixed.
The Prestone and Peak are OAT, the O'Reilly is Conventional.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
The Prestone and Peak are OAT, the O'Reilly is Conventional.
Exactly, you can't mix them. They're all green, right? If you used traditional Prestone IAT green in 2010 then you need to use the O'Reilly stuff I think. The silicate is part of the equation but it's the Sodium 2-Ethyl Hexanoate (2-EHA) that you have to avoid mixing with them. If you're running silicate-free then you can add a coolant with 2-EHA in it and probably be OK in a pinch. Toyota coolant has zero 2-EHA in it, but in their case I understand it was more over the concern that it softens plastics and leads to erosion of the gaskets.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:21 PM
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It truly is confusing.

Interesting article:
http://mastertechmag.com/pdf/2006/no...antifreeze.pdf

BTW, this article refers to sebacate (I think they mean Sebacic acid, which ends ups being a plasticizer, too) as an alternative to 2-EHA in Toyota coolant, but it's now thought that this is a red herring and the sebacate is no better for gasket erosion.

I dunno. My worry is primarily wanting non-silicate and not mixing chemistry so I run the Toyota stuff since the formulation should remain consistent.
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