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  #11  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:12 AM
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My limited slip only lasted for about 30k miles (maybe even less) before it ran like an open diff.
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  #12  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:55 AM
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you need to replace the wood overlay with a camo overlay
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  #13  
Old 06-17-2009, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treerootCO View Post
Murdered out!!
Word Holmes.
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  #14  
Old 06-17-2009, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by wesintl View Post
you need to replace the wood overlay with a camo overlay
My buddy wanted me to do carbon fiber
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
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  #15  
Old 06-17-2009, 12:40 PM
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I wouldn't do the rtt on the bed. Do the softtopper instead. you can sleep in in, and hide your stuff. You loose bed storage/flexibility with the RTT on there.
I disagree on the lsd, somewhat. I would put a loc-rite or detroit in the rear and a lsd up front anyday on MOST vehicles. I had a detroit (factory) on my 2007 chebby full-size. NO issues in snow/ice other than the wimpy arse street tires it came with. That being said, if you're not going to have some weight in the rear of that truck in the winter time, you're not going to go anywhere in 2wd with it.

My T100 takes about 250lbs in the rear during the snowy months to even behave in a civil manner, without a locker.

at most I would add a leaf and add coils. Personally, I would leave it stock if I were to do anything. that's what you have a 40 for. treat it as a car that can tow the 40, haul mulch for that house your buying and take the wife to dinner while she's wearing a nice outfit.
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  #16  
Old 06-17-2009, 07:49 PM
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Personally, I would leave it stock if I were to do anything. that's what you have a 40 for. treat it as a car that can tow the 40, haul mulch for that house your buying and take the wife to dinner while she's wearing a nice outfit.
x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2009, 10:42 PM
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x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.
x2

No need for two wheelin' rigs. I would slap a set of AT's on, make it as comfy as possible, and wheel the 40...

or you could always...
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  #18  
Old 06-18-2009, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbet View Post
x2

nice set of AT's and catch it up on all its PM. Build the 40 and wheel it. DD the Tundra.
You guys are no fun...

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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #19  
Old 06-18-2009, 11:28 AM
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hey - you can choose to listen to those that have been there done that, or you can do what you want... lol your choice.

You're an engineer, do a simple spreadsheet on the ROI for the Tundra vs the 40
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  #20  
Old 10-30-2010, 09:04 PM
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After thinking about it and driving it for a little over a year, here's what I've done so far:

-Took off the aftermarket wheels and got a set of OEM alloy wheels and got a set of BFG A/Ts in the proper tire size. 285/75/16 was too big for me.

-Did all the pm except flushing the brake system and power steering system. New timing belt, water pump, coolant, flushed transmission, differentials and t-case. Oil changes at 5,000 miles.

Here's what I'm thinking about doing (and now that it's paid off I'll have a little more freed-up money to do some of this):

-The rotors are warped - apparently this is a common problem due to undersized calipers on the early Tundras. Both of my rotors have been turned and replaced before I bought the truck, and they're warped again. The solution is to swap out the calipers for a pair of 2004-2006 Tundra calipers. There is a TSB on this procedure, and the parts are something like $1700 from the dealer Still trying to figure out how to approach this one...

-I hate this exhaust, it's too loud and the mufflers are starting to rust out on me (one rusted out this summer, so I took it off and welded the hole closed for the time being to buy me some more time). Luckily the guy who put the exhaust on didn't totally make it hard to fix. There is a y-pipe where the two sides come together; it's downstream of the cats and O2 sensors and it has a resonater as part of the assembly. Unfortunately all the "cat-back" systems don't include the y-pipe; technically it's a "y-pipe back system," which makes it hard to find a factory y-pipe, unless I were to go to a junkyard. Well he did bugger up the y-pipe during the exhaust install, so I'm thinking about getting a Walker y-pipe through Napa, and then getting a Dynomax "cat-back" kit to finish it off following the original routing. It should give me back some torque, should have a smoother sound, be quieter, and it will dump behind the rear tire which I like better than the dual outs under the rear bumper.

-I have to figure out what's squeaking in the front suspension, might have to replace my a-arm bushings, or maybe it's the fabtech coilover squeaking somehow...

-On the subject of the coilover, the truck needs new shocks too. I was thinking maybe taking it back to the OEM Bilsteins that came on the TRD package, but that's like $300 and I don't think they come with a lifetime warranty like Napa premiums do, still not sure on this one either, haven't looked into it a lot yet. And I'm not sure what is compatible with the coilovers either, need to look into that.

-Eventually I need to replace the trailer hitch, especially if I'm going to tow anything of significance. I don't know where the one that's on there came from, but it looks sketchy to me and I don't like it.

-I found out that none of the 1st gen Tundras came with a power antenna, just a stationary antenna. But I also found out that I can get a power antenna from a 1st gen Sequoia and it will plug right into the back of my radio. And when I do that when the radio is turned on the antenna will go up automatically and when the radio is shut off the antenna lowers automatically. And since the OEM antenna mount for the 1st gen Tundras is known for breaking (and mine is broken), it will be a good upgrade

-I would like to get a set of Weathertech floormats. I don't like wearing holes in the factory carpet floormats, and I think these are really nice to keep mud and snow etc. from staining the interior of the vehicle. At about $100 per set I think that's pretty reasonable.

-Finally, I am thinking about swapping my Ham radio to the Tundra, since I hardly drive the FJ40 these days. I've been thinking about how to do this, and I would also like to take up the wasted space on top of the tranny hump. There is a cool solution for this. A later model 1st gen Tundra or Sequoia has a larger center console that extends all the way forward, that basically bolts right in with some different brackets. And I can get one that has the wood trim like I currently have so it'll match perfectly I figure I can put my radio somewhere on that sucker, and I won't feel bad about hacking it up because I can put the OEM one back in if needed, and then I can get the removable faceplate kit and mount my faceplate somewhere else on the console or in the garage door opener holder up by the windshield.

Once I get these things taken care of I'll be happy to drive it for a while without making any other large changes. I like not having this truck modded too much, it's kinda nice.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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