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  #41  
Old 12-09-2010, 09:36 AM
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I'm going to need to tear it down and, at minimum, have the cylinders honed and re-ringed
Thats really easy to do. Pop the head and oil pan off, yank the pistons, install new rings & rod bearings, put it all back together. If you start in the morning with 2 people that know what they're doing, you'll have it running again that evening.

Thats what I did 2 years ago on the mule motor, worked great. I have a cylinder hone, we might have to borrow a ridge reamer from Autozone but thats about it. You're probably looking at $150 or less for rings, bearings and gaskets. I'm sure this is something Ricardo would love to participate in
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Old 12-09-2010, 09:49 AM
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  #43  
Old 12-09-2010, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Thats really easy to do. Pop the head and oil pan off, yank the pistons, install new rings & rod bearings, put it all back together. If you start in the morning with 2 people that know what they're doing, you'll have it running again that evening.

Thats what I did 2 years ago on the mule motor, worked great. I have a cylinder hone, we might have to borrow a ridge reamer from Autozone but thats about it. You're probably looking at $150 or less for rings, bearings and gaskets. I'm sure this is something Ricardo would love to participate in
Yeah, that would be a great project to be involved in. We would get to use the new SST that I dropped off at Randy's yesterday.
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  #44  
Old 12-10-2010, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Air Randy View Post
Thats really easy to do. Pop the head and oil pan off, yank the pistons, install new rings & rod bearings, put it all back together. If you start in the morning with 2 people that know what they're doing, you'll have it running again that evening.

Thats what I did 2 years ago on the mule motor, worked great. I have a cylinder hone, we might have to borrow a ridge reamer from Autozone but thats about it. You're probably looking at $150 or less for rings, bearings and gaskets. I'm sure this is something Ricardo would love to participate in
Maybe this is the best course of action for me. What do you guys think? Here's the facts: My spare engine seems to be in bad shape. Compression test numbers, cold, were 107/100/80/40/74/111. Not so good. I also know it has been rebuilt before, so it may well already be bored out. I'm tinking its a pile of spare parts.

However, the engine in my 40 now had pretty good compression. Warm and dry it was 131/120/132/130/113/130. When we did the wet test to cylinders 2 and 5 which were the low ones, they came up to 131/130. That would make it pretty darn good. The engine runs pretty well, but smokes a fair bit. Maybe that is from 2 and 5, huh. So would an in-truck hone and ring job on 2 and 5 fix me up, or should I do 'em all while i'm in there?

Of course, the other problem is that the rear and front main seals leak like a hooker with a colostomy bag. Also the clutch seems to be wearing down and the tranny/tfer seal is bad, so maybe it would be worth pulling the whole shbang out and fix it all at once. Thoughts anyone?
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  #45  
Old 12-11-2010, 09:02 AM
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Does it smoke worse when it's cold and you first start it up or does it smoke all of the time when you're driving it? Point being that it could be valve guides and seals contributing to your smoking in addition to the rings.

For me, if you're going to pull the head off anyways, I recommend you send the head to Gunn and have them do a complete valve job including guides, seals, deck the head, etc. You could pull the head off of your spare motor and get it rebuilt in advance so you can still make it a weekend job.

Along the same lines, if you're going to drop the oil pan it's better to hone and re-ring all cylinders while you're in there.

My advice though, since you also have issues with leaking seals, failing clutch, etc. is to go ahead and disassemble your spare motor and take it to Gunn. Just because it's been rebuilt before doesn't mean it can't be bored out more, depends on how much they took out the first time. If your crank is bad I have a good one thats cheap. I would do a full rebuild on the spare so you end up with a new motor. Its about the same amount of work to pull the old engine and drop the new one in as it is to do an in-chassis rebuild. And you can replace the clutch and tranny/TC seals at the same time.

Keep in mind too, an in-chassis re-ring is sort of a stop gap measure. Depending on how worn your cylinders are it may only give you a marginal increase in compression and will wear out sooner.

If you rebuild your spare it will be just like a new motor and go forever (well almost).
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:47 AM
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It smokes most noticeably when I start it up, cold or warm. Gunn can mic the cylinder walls for me to see where its at if I bring him the block, right?
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  #47  
Old 12-11-2010, 12:31 PM
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It smokes most noticeably when I start it up, cold or warm. Gunn can mic the cylinder walls for me to see where its at if I bring him the block, right?
If you get most of your smoke on startup versus when you are driving, that usually indicates worn valve guides & seals.

Whats the elevation where you live? Are your compression numbers adjusted for altitude already or is that what the guage actually read? Just curious.

Yes, Mr. Gunn will mic the cylinder walls and crank and tell you if they are rebuildable before he starts any of the work. He can also get you a master rebuild kit that includes pistons, rings, bearings and all gaskets & seals. Tell him you're with the Toyota club and he'll give you a really good price. He already sells you the parts at cost plus 10% so his prices usually can't be beat.
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  #48  
Old 12-11-2010, 02:04 PM
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Thanks, Randy. You should just about be due for a free engine job as much business as you send to Gunn's! I live in Denver, 5280 feet ad those were the raw numbers.
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  #49  
Old 12-11-2010, 02:19 PM
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Thanks, Randy. You should just about be due for a free engine job as much business as you send to Gunn's! I live in Denver, 5280 feet ad those were the raw numbers.
I wish. So your worst cylinder adjusted for altitude is 133 psi, next worse is 141 and the rest are almost 150. 150 is what they should be new at sea level. Generally speaking it sounds like the rings aren't in too bad of shape.
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Old 12-11-2010, 10:11 PM
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...Keep in mind too, an in-chassis re-ring is sort of a stop gap measure. Depending on how worn your cylinders are it may only give you a marginal increase in compression and will wear out sooner.

If you rebuild your spare it will be just like a new motor and go forever (well almost).
Why is there any difference between honing in-chassis vs. rebuild/hone in a machine shop? I mean, the honed cylinders have to broken in either way, and if the rest of it's good...

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