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  #11  
Old 12-15-2010, 02:41 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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Hot Air Intake (HAI): Keeps intake air temperature hot even when it's cold outside. I haven't fully figure this out yet, I know that it's a thermally controlled valve on my air cleaner housing.

This prevents carburetor icing and speeds cold weather warmup. I highly recommend keeping it. If it's plumbed correctly, the flapper opens when the engine is hot to let cool air get to the engine.
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  #12  
Old 12-15-2010, 02:51 PM
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subzali subzali is offline
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Where does the hot air come from? I haven't been able to see where it is plumbed to...
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2010, 03:12 PM
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I think I just found a new part I didn't know existed: the exhaust manifold insulator - SOR# 044-030:
http://www.sor.com/sor/cat044.tam?xa...x=cat044%2Etam

Is this what the air cleaner HAI tube is supposed to connect to? There's supposed to be one for the rear too? Does the HAI tube connect to that as well? Does anybody have a good picture of what that looks like?
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 12-16-2010 at 01:38 PM.
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  #14  
Old 12-15-2010, 03:29 PM
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AxleIke AxleIke is offline
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Very cool project matt! Needs more pictures!

I wish I could do this, but sadly, my truck is no longer eligible for classic status and thus will always have to pass emissions.
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  #15  
Old 12-15-2010, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AxleIke View Post
Very cool project matt! Needs more pictures!

I wish I could do this, but sadly, my truck is no longer eligible for classic status and thus will always have to pass emissions.
Thanks Isaac, I've been debating over the past couple of days whether it's actually a good idea and whether I actually want to do this. I guess the driving factor for me is that I get to learn about how the systems work and play with it and see what happens. If it doesn't work then I can always go back to stock, but at this point that would be harder than doing the full desmog because my BVSV is broken (my fault), I accidently threw away my EGR cooler, pipe and valve , and I have a '78 carb and a '79-'80 distributor, neither of which are really set up to work with my '77 emissions system anyway, so I'd have to get all those parts replaced (and while doing that decide what to do with my ignition system since I would have to go away from my current full-electronic setup to something else - more $$). Of course, I could ignore it (which I have been doing), but in the past few days of taking a closer look at things I've been learning a lot, which has been fun for me.

If I didn't already have ideas of things to do with the emissions stuff removed, and if most or all of it was still already installed, I probably wouldn't mess with it. But we'll see how this turns out; if my truck stinks and doesn't respond well to what I'm planning on doing then I may take it back anyway.

And yes I know more pictures would be good. I'm working on it, but wanted to flush out the concept first before pulling hoses off and going to town Hopefully tonight I can get more diagrams posted up which should help things make more sense.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #16  
Old 12-15-2010, 03:58 PM
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I have a spare ERG cooler, and maybe some other stuff you might need if you ever decide to go backwards.
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  #17  
Old 12-15-2010, 04:35 PM
SteveH SteveH is offline
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I've only seen a front heat-collector on FJs and a single tube to the air cleaner. These frequently rust off, fall apart, or are left off after a manifold gasket job. You can fab one with thin sheet metal, if needed - just make a snout to fit the hose, and a section that attempts to collect heat off the exhaust manifold.

They're pretty pricey at the dealer, if you can still get them.
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  #18  
Old 12-15-2010, 08:44 PM
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Okay, here's some better pictures of what I plan to do:

Here's the original '77 emissions schematic:


Here's what I think it needs to look like after I'm done with it:


And here's the isometric view of the factory hose routing:


And here's what I think I need to remove:


And here's what it will look like when I'm done:


So it really cleans up things. I'm hoping it doesn't mess something up. If it does I guess I can always go back. I'll take pictures of what's actually under the hood when I get to it, but actually these diagrams probably show everything clearer. Just notice that I changed the '77 distributor to what I actually have, a '79-'80 dual advance distributor. The outer diaphragm is the secondary diaphragm that is activated by the High Altitude Compensation (HAC) valve and the inner diaphragm is the primary diaphragm. There is some debate on which one works best hooked up when the truck is desmogged, so I'm going to play with it and see.

Here's the schematic for a '79, and it shows the inner diaphragm being connected to the Advance Port on the carb (factory configuration). But if you look at the second one, it shows it the other way around (though it's been modified by Jim C. and is showing a desmogged system). The operation of '79-'80 and '81-'87 distributors is the same, at least as far as vacuum advance is concerned.
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 12-16-2010 at 10:46 AM.
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  #19  
Old 12-16-2010, 07:57 AM
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After some more MUDsearch I found this thread:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...ml#post4078263

Quote:
Originally Posted by FJ40Jim
Recurving the dissy is nice, but not a requirement.

You should test the vacuum advance before installing the dissy. Use a mityvac (or a engine manifold vacuum source on a running engine) and apply vacuum to the advancer fittings. The inner one should provide noticeable movement of the breaker plate. The outer one will also move the plate, but only 3* of rotation, so you have to watch for it. If the inner fitting doesn't hold vacuum, or won't move, it is permissible to use the outer fitting as vac advance. It may actually work better this way on a desmogged engine.
So after I take all the rest of the emissions stuff off I'll try hooking up the dizzy on the outer vacuum connection and see if it runs better. It'll be a neat experiment...

A couple more threads:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series...m-routing.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by 65swb45
Opinions vary on how to hook them up when the emissions equipment is removed.

I run with the school of thought that says run all the advance you can get without predetonation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by FJ40Jim
If you have a 12/78-earlier electronic distributor, it is vac advance and vac retard. The outer vac fitting is advance, connect it to ported vac on carb. Inner fitting is retard, connect to nothing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiseroutfit
As Jim pointed out, 78' would be vacuum advance and retard, 79' and later would be advance advance, the inner one is ~8 degrees and the outer is 4*, though I have never tested those numbers...
Also, you can visually tell if a dizzy is vacuum advance or retard because of this: if the vacuum can is facing more toward the radiator it's advance, if it's facing the firewall it's retard. Also, if vacuum is applied to an advance dizzy the contact plate will rotate CCW, while vacuum applied to a retard dizzy will rotate the plate CW. There's a lot of good info on MUD with a little searching...
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 12-16-2010 at 10:47 AM.
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  #20  
Old 12-16-2010, 04:39 PM
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Air Randy Air Randy is offline
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Matt,

On your "after" diagram you have a vacuum line going from your vsv valve up to a temperature switch which has the vacuum plugged off. I'm not sure, but I think with no vacuum to that switch your vsv valve isn't going to function completely and you won't get any vacuum to the charcoal canister.
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