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  #101  
Old 09-21-2010, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I moved the alarm indicator over to the left side of the steering wheel where there are more blanks. The wire behind the dash was long enough so that no rewiring was needed.
More blanks? Marco already said that joke... :-)
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  #102  
Old 09-21-2010, 03:00 PM
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Hmmm.. well you still have options: toss the alarm indicator inside the dash somewhere because you don't really need to see it, or get out the jigsaw and start carving rectangular holes in the dash
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  #103  
Old 09-22-2010, 04:25 AM
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I thought about it, but on the LX450 there is a sensor located next to the blinking red.
I think it is for inside temp for the auto climate control.
I didnt want to mess with it further. it has been already moved from up row to low row with unknown consequences. It may be the cause for 12mpg?
Just kidding.
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  #104  
Old 09-22-2010, 05:42 AM
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I think the sensor is the glass breakage sensor to trigger the alarm.
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  #105  
Old 09-22-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I think the sensor is the glass breakage sensor to trigger the alarm.
Yep, that be what it is and whether it even works?

Rami, the sensor for the HVAC that you are probably thinking about I believe hides somewhere behind the little "vents" below the fan off button. IIRC there is a white tube stuck to the back of the vents that goes off somewhere...
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  #106  
Old 09-22-2010, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corsair23 View Post
Rami, the sensor for the HVAC that you are probably thinking about I believe hides somewhere behind the little "vents" below the fan off button. IIRC there is a white tube stuck to the back of the vents that goes off somewhere...
Oh yea, I think you are right. I porgot bout that one.
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  #107  
Old 03-26-2011, 05:59 PM
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Revival -

Current Antenna: Larsen NMO 150 5/8 wave ground plane antenna for trail and a shorty kept handy in the rig.

An Elmer member to be suggested a "no ground plane antenna". Maybe, but:

Will the expanded metal floor of a roofrack function as an effective groundplane? If not, and if I wish to avoid drilling the roof for a mount, which BTW would then cause the antenna to be sitting low relative to the rack, would a metal disk, probably stainless sheet, make sense to do? Could the disk be effective if it was on the underside of the expanded metal or must it be on top? What size? My reading suggests 18" diameter.

Also, the expanded metal is heavily powdercoated. Does the mount need to have clean metal contact to the expanded metal - which would perhaps be another reason to just locate a disk up there.

OR, should I just clamp it to a crossbar and call it good.

I also plan to move the CB antenna up there.

Will metal fuel cans interfere?

I assume non-metallic loads will not (ie, firewood, plastic gear boxes, etc.)

Thanks!
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  #108  
Old 03-27-2011, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
An antenna in the middle of that expanded metal floor would be about as perfect a mobile VHF or UHF as you're likely to find!
Dave, you rock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
....Radio waves will find anything conductive for their return path.... It's your job to give the energy an efficient way to get home to the radio
Doesn't the coaxial provide the return path to the radio?

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Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
Just need to remove powdercoat enough to make contact at one spot.... If it was electrically isolated at the feedpoint, that would be a problem....
What is a "feedpoint"

The contact at the one point, is it for the antenna bracket, which then provides the ground plane connection to the antenna?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveInDenver View Post
CB: Same principles apply, although the size of the ground plane grows from 18" to about 8 feet. Everyone runs a compromised ground for CB (and HF ham for that matter). Our best hope is that the whole car acts reasonably like a ground plane. The mount for the CB antenna needs to conduct to the rack and it would be best if the rack itself was also conductive to the truck body. See the thread on 'bonding' that KD2KDK started when doing his HF radio installation.
Would the same ground wires used for the lights work for the CB ground, or must I run the lights on a ground wire back to the battery and separately ground the rack to the roof?

Thanks!
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  #109  
Old 03-28-2011, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inukshuk View Post
OR, should I just clamp it to a crossbar and call it good.
Yep, get a roof rack mount and make sure you have a good electrical connection, then switch the NMO 150 for a 1/2 wave (something like a MNO 2/70) and call it good. You have plenty of metal under the antenna to dissipate any common mode current (is that the correct term, Dave?) keeping it off the feed line.

Don't get hung up on "ground planes" unless your running a ground plane antenna ie: 1/4 wave whip. A half wave is a "no ground plane antenna" but reality it's a ground "lessdependent" antenna, no ground plane required you just need to keep the feed line from radiating.

For the Chicken Band antenna, use a couple of ground STRAPS not wire. They'll be good for RF and DC.
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  #110  
Old 03-28-2011, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seldom Seen View Post
Yep, get a roof rack mount and make sure you have a good electrical connection, then switch the NMO 150 for a 1/2 wave (something like a MNO 2/70) and call it good. You have plenty of metal under the antenna to dissipate any common mode current (is that the correct term, Dave?) keeping it off the feed line.

Don't get hung up on "ground planes" unless your running a ground plane antenna ie: 1/4 wave whip. A half wave is a "no ground plane antenna" but reality it's a ground "lessdependent" antenna, no ground plane required you just need to keep the feed line from radiating.

For the Chicken Band antenna, use a couple of ground STRAPS not wire. They'll be good for RF and DC.
Sean is also advocating the "no ground plane" antenna. Either way it looks like I'll want a rack to body ground strap.
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