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  #11  
Old 05-16-2011, 01:21 PM
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What is the inrush (startup) current for these fridges? That wiring looks ultra light duty!
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  #12  
Old 05-16-2011, 01:25 PM
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I had a portable coffee maker that the plug would get hotter than the water it was supposed to heat. It wasn't worth fixing so it got pitched. If anyone wants to pitch their fridge, let me know
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2011, 03:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
post up a pic/link of the socket you used. I need to upgrade mine....

Is the new one hot after the fridge runs for a while? You could wire the volt meter at the fridge and watch what it does as the fridge cycles.. I have used sewing needles to pierce the insulation and get to the wires inside before, then you touch the voltmeter to the exposed needles. Just don't let them touch!
This is what I have:

http://www.marinco.com/product/12v-plug-receptacle

The locking part has been solid. I've never had the plug wiggle loose, which has been an ongoing problem with both this truck and my last one.
I don't see an amperage rating on the site, but I thought it was 10 amps.
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Old 05-16-2011, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeoffroad View Post
ARB has a device that is supposed to be able to simulate the load and test the socket. I think the bottom line is the ARB fridge has a high start up current requirement and a lot of wiring / sockets does not like that. I would go away from the 12 v plug and use an mini Andersen plug

Those might be overkill, but like the idea. I've wired a pigtail using 45 amp Andersen Powerpoles (Series PP) so that I can run my Engel from a ham station supply. I've converted most everything to Powerpoles and the 15, 30 and 45 amp ones are all compatible with each other. They have 75, 120 and 180 amp ones, but they are all physically larger and aren't directly compatible with the smaller ones. The ones you link are also made my Andersen, but are called the Series SB. The reason I went with the PP models is they are VERY common and usually standard with hams, ARES, RACES and many commercial radio and EMCOMM organizations. So finding a ~13.8V battery-, genset- or mains-based supply with them is not a problem.



http://www.andersonpower.com/
http://www.powerwerx.com/
http://www.qsradio.com/

Lose the cigarette outlet, put one of these in its place.

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Old 05-16-2011, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
What is the inrush (startup) current for these fridges? That wiring looks ultra light duty!
My Engel MT45 inrush isn't huge (~5A), but it's also not nearly as smart with the under voltage protection. I have a 12AWG running about 12 feet from the battery to my outlet. Lowest I ever ran it was 2 days in the summer without starting the truck. The battery was at 11.7V (measured by my ham radio, so very unscientific). The fridge was still running and cold, although the engine cranked s-l-o-w.

FWIW, 18AWG wire is 6.5 milliohms per foot, so 6 feet is around 40 milliohms. If the fridge is 10A inrush, that's 0.4V of drop. I can't disagree that 18AWG is maybe light. Going to 12AWG or 14AWG would help, yielding V drops of about 0.10V and 0.15V respectively (assuming 10A inrush). I'd be surprised if the inrush is that high, but maybe it is and the UVL is just that sensitive. Suppose your battery is brand new and at 60% SOC, so sitting at about 12.2V and it's hit with a start-up, dropping to 11.8V. I dunno, seems sorta high still.
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Last edited by DaveInDenver; 05-17-2011 at 09:00 AM.
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  #16  
Old 05-17-2011, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the links Dave. I ordered some of those powerpoles last night - hopefully they'll do the trick.
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  #17  
Old 05-17-2011, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Jacket View Post
Thanks for the links Dave. I ordered some of those powerpoles last night - hopefully they'll do the trick.
In a pinch, HRO also has bags of the 15, 30 and 45 pieces.
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  #18  
Old 05-21-2011, 03:55 PM
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Pretty solid stuff - almost like playing with legos. The little contacts are tricky to get into the housings after you crimp them, but otherwise it was easy to migrate from the 12v socket.





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  #19  
Old 05-21-2011, 04:59 PM
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Much smarter people than me have already commented here without saying anything about your battery voltages so maybe I'm out to lunch on this. I've recently read that a fully charged 12V battery should read somewhere around 12.9V and a battery reading 12.5V is considered at 50% of a full charge. A battery reading of 12.04V sounds like it is pretty weak and with a compressor kicking on, I can see it temporarily dropping to below the set shutoff point of the fridge.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:44 PM
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It had been sitting for a couple days with the fridge on, so the battery wasn't at full charge. But you might be right; the battery is almost 4 years old now, and maybe it's lost some of it's ability. I'll be running it this week and then up to Paonia for the weekend, so I'll have a chance to see if the wiring and plugs make a difference.
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