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  #21  
Old 11-01-2010, 11:45 AM
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I have a couple of OEM Bilsteins that I won at the RS Rally. Coming to the RS meeting on Wednesday? I can throw them in the truck for you to take a look at.
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  #22  
Old 06-12-2011, 10:17 PM
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<snip>
-The rotors are warped - apparently this is a common problem due to undersized calipers on the early Tundras. Both of my rotors have been turned and replaced before I bought the truck, and they're warped again. The solution is to swap out the calipers for a pair of 2004-2006 Tundra calipers. There is a TSB on this procedure, and the parts are something like $1700 from the dealer Still trying to figure out how to approach this one...
I took care of this upgrade today. 2004 Tundra calipers (a little different shape, part of the TSB), Brembo plain rotors, Hawk LTS brake pads. Hopefully this'll keep any brake pulsing at bay well, supposedly for good. We'll see. Anyone need a pair of S13WE calipers as an upgrade to their 4runner/Tacoma?

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<snip>-I have to figure out what's squeaking in the front suspension, might have to replace my a-arm bushings, or maybe it's the fabtech coilover squeaking somehow...

-On the subject of the coilover, the truck needs new shocks too. I was thinking maybe taking it back to the OEM Bilsteins that came on the TRD package, but that's like $300 and I don't think they come with a lifetime warranty like Napa premiums do, still not sure on this one either, haven't looked into it a lot yet. And I'm not sure what is compatible with the coilovers either, need to look into that.
Well, this issue got somewhat pushed to the forefront today. I noticed while I was working on my brakes that my passenger side coilover shock is broken. The eye where it attaches to the lower a-arm is busted. It's a fox shock that came as part of the Fabtech coilover arrangement that the PPO bought/installed, so I guess I need to call Fox and see if they can do anything for me. Even though I'm planning on going back to the stock coilovers with OE-style Bilstein shocks, I was hoping to have this Fabtech setup as a backup for if I ever get a bumper and winch setup for the front. My driver's side shock is (and has been) leaking as well, so it's time for new shocks anyway.

I also noticed that my cv boot is torn on my driver's side, so I guess I need to replace that sooner rather than later. Should I just go ahead and replace both or should I just keep an eye on the other one for when it eventually tears?

Both of these issues along with the squeaking (which I think is worn out a-arm bushings) I guess are going to have to be dealt with soon, though I think I'll leave the bushing replacement to the experts since it involves the alignment, which I don't want to royally screw up. Supposedly some catastrophic failures can occur if I neglect the a-arm bushings and/or the cv joint? Oh the joys of vehicle ownership

But hey I saved >$20,000 by buying a used vehicle, so I can afford a few hundred $$ for the inevitable repairs right?

I would like to invite others' thoughts on this, as I've never owned/worked on a modern IFS 4x4 truck before. Tips/tricks/resources would be helpful
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  #23  
Old 06-13-2011, 08:18 AM
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What we all really want to know is what color you blinged out your new calipers with.
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  #24  
Old 06-13-2011, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by subzali View Post
I took care of this upgrade today. 2004 Tundra calipers (a little different shape, part of the TSB), Brembo plain rotors, Hawk LTS brake pads. Hopefully this'll keep any brake pulsing at bay well, supposedly for good. We'll see. Anyone need a pair of S13WE calipers as an upgrade to their 4runner/Tacoma?

PM sent...Terry
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  #25  
Old 06-13-2011, 10:19 AM
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Is the CV boot torn from a branch/rock/road debris, or from rubbing along the fins? If it's from rubbing, you'll probably see the other side develop the same issue soon enough, but if the hole is just from random debris I wouldn't worry about the other side. The replacement job is pretty simple, although you need a special tool to crimp the clamps if you use OEM style.

So you have an aftermarket coilover (Fox)? Is it taller than stock? I think you'd be disappointed to go back to OEM Bilsteins (mushy), but if you are going aftermarket Bilsteins that are better than OEM spec that sounds Ok. While you are in there changing the boot(s), you could pull the coilover and take it to a shop with a hydraulic spring compressor and have them swap out the struts. It's worth every penny of the ~ $60 per side.....
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  #26  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:02 AM
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It ripped just to the outside of the inner clamp, the small one around the axle shaft. Just looks dry rotted and cracked from 11 years of Colorado summers.

I've been doing some reading on the Bilsteins, and I think you're right on getting something a little stiffer. I'm pretty sure the Tundra guys have it all figured out by part # and everything, so I'll probably go that direction. The PPO put on a Fabtech 0-2.5" adjustable "lift" - really a leveling kit I guess, but supposedly the spring rates of the coils is higher than stock, and I guess the shocks probably have more travel than stock. I think it's adusted all the way down so I'm getting no lift, just stiffer suspension in the front, but I'm not sure if OEM size Bilsteins will go right in or what, so I just figure I'll take it all back to stock form and figure it out from there.
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  #27  
Old 06-13-2011, 11:33 AM
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looking good matt.
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  #28  
Old 06-13-2011, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
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...I also noticed that my cv boot is torn on my driver's side, so I guess I need to replace that sooner rather than later. Should I just go ahead and replace both or should I just keep an eye on the other one for when it eventually tears?...
Ouch! $713 according to toyodiy.com for a cv shaft! Really!?
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1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, Metric TLC leather, heated seats and JDM switches
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  #29  
Old 06-13-2011, 12:42 PM
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That can't be right. The Tacoma ones were 300-400 for new, or $125 for a lightly used one from Central Foreign. But the boot itself should be < $50.
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  #30  
Old 06-13-2011, 12:47 PM
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I like the idea of adjustable coilovers - better performance than stock and you can fine tune the ride height based on your load and preference. But the adjuster has a tendency to get corroded and seize up, leaving you stuck at wherever you set it to begin with.

I would think pretty much any similar length shock with an eye bolt at the bottom and a stud on the top should be compatible, although some might argue you should find a shock that's set up to match the spring rate of your coil.

A set of high end Fox shocks should do the trick...
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