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  #11  
Old 07-14-2011, 06:48 PM
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2011, 10:30 PM
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I would highly suggest an oil set up if you dont have a tank. You will be running it longer so you run a better chance of it drying out. On mine the PO told me to just squirt wd40 or a lubricant on the filter and it would suck it in... NOT! It being closer to the manifold it may run hotter also. Just a thought.
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:17 AM
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I saw some info on tooling oilers, so may have to check into that. Red Fox says he oils his like once a season and it's good to go.
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2011, 07:26 AM
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Pneumatic tool oilers are designed to go on the high pressure side of the system and use a venturi tube to suck oil into the air hose. I doubt that would work on the pump inlet.

I'm not sure what would work well other than to make it really easy to put a few drops of oil in the inlet just prior to running the pump.
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Old 07-15-2011, 08:15 AM
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That is what the other folks using this set up have done and from what i have read has worked well. I believe they got there stuff from Northern Tool for the most part. Just google it, or look on the Front Range site. That is what i did. Not sure how much oil mine had but would not suspect much but could possibly work with just oiling once a season. But would suspect it depends on usage also.
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  #16  
Old 07-31-2011, 02:45 PM
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Slowly but surely...
Got my Trollhole replica small courtesy light switch installed in the previously plugged hole in the dash today. Not quite sure if it's what I'm looking for, any opinions? By the way, in earlier FJ40s this little knob is installed on the right side of the pocket (glove box). My FJ40 has no holes in the dash at this location, so for now I'm using holes that are already existing.

Exclusively for Jacket, I wiped down my dashboard so it's all clean
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
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Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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Old 08-01-2011, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Pneumatic tool oilers are designed to go on the high pressure side of the system and use a venturi tube to suck oil into the air hose. I doubt that would work on the pump inlet.

I'm not sure what would work well other than to make it really easy to put a few drops of oil in the inlet just prior to running the pump.
In Wildrice I have used an inline oiler for years! I have a dryer on the pressure side that I pull most of the oil back out along with most moisture. I have run Toyota A/C pumps for a long time! I did chew one up years ago and that was from occasional oiling. Knock on wood but I have never lost a pump since I use the inline oiler. For oil I use a 50/50 mix of A/C oil and Slick 50.
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  #18  
Old 08-17-2011, 05:12 PM
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Had a thought a couple days ago that I forgot about until today - If I had an FJ60, or FJ60 carb, I could hook the idle-up vacuum pot to take signal from the compressor turning on. That would be cool. But not necessary for this build. Or is it?
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"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #19  
Old 08-17-2011, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Had a thought a couple days ago that I forgot about until today - If I had an FJ60, or FJ60 carb, I could hook the idle-up vacuum pot to take signal from the compressor turning on. That would be cool. But not necessary for this build. Or is it?
That helps but you will find higher RPM is needed for air tools or rapid tire filling. A simple hand throttle is sufficient. In Long Grain (my V8J62) I flash programmed the ECU to kick the throttle up to 1800 when the welder was in need. I did it through the voltage drop when the welder circuit dropped the alternator off line. Worked well!
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Stay on the Trail!
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I need an FJ40....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Cruisers are superior
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  #20  
Old 08-17-2011, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Ben View Post
That helps but you will find higher RPM is needed for air tools or rapid tire filling. A simple hand throttle is sufficient. In Long Grain (my V8J62) I flash programmed the ECU to kick the throttle up to 1800 when the welder was in need. I did it through the voltage drop when the welder circuit dropped the alternator off line. Worked well!
I figured it wouldn't be enough. Time to think about a hand throttle...
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Matt Miller
"Stay the Trail," "Tread Lightly," and "Leave No Trace" ethics
TLCA# 13684
Rising Sun Bio
1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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