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  #51  
Old 02-05-2012, 07:56 PM
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compressed fuel vapor in the tires!?
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  #52  
Old 02-05-2012, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rover67 View Post
very true... never thought about that one. although with the motor running to power the pump it seems like the chances of getting gas sucked into the compressor are pretty low.



man, may want to think about it...
Excellent counter point! As long as it's a negative pressure (engine drawing air) there should be no fumes in air cleaner except for possible crankcase vapor.
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  #53  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:06 PM
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I chose to not pull air from the air cleaner for my onboard air. Here's why: the pressure in the air cleaner is lower than atmosphere, not much lower but it is lower because the engine is pulling air through it. Any drop in the pressure at the intake of the compressor will reduce its efficiency. Think of it as the opposite of a turbo charger. One of the nice benefits of an engine driven compressor is the relatively high air flow. Why reduce the flow by drawing air from a low pressure zone?
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  #54  
Old 02-05-2012, 09:08 PM
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Matt, If you're using 3/4" OD hose for the intake it should be about 1/2" ID. It should just press on over the compressor intake fitting without another interface. Just clamp it off and you're good to go.
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  #55  
Old 02-06-2012, 07:56 AM
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I chose to not pull air from the air cleaner for my onboard air. Here's why: the pressure in the air cleaner is lower than atmosphere, not much lower but it is lower because the engine is pulling air through it. Any drop in the pressure at the intake of the compressor will reduce its efficiency. Think of it as the opposite of a turbo charger. One of the nice benefits of an engine driven compressor is the relatively high air flow. Why reduce the flow by drawing air from a low pressure zone?
Hm. Also a good point. I'm glad I posted up! I'll see what they have at Ace, it might be easier to go the dedicated filter route.

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Originally Posted by Deerskin View Post
Matt, If you're using 3/4" OD hose for the intake it should be about 1/2" ID. It should just press on over the compressor intake fitting without another interface. Just clamp it off and you're good to go.
The suction of the compressor, the 5/8" SAE, has 7/8"-14 threads. I did some more measuring and the hose port on my air cleaner is 1". I'm thinking of taking Bruce's advice, if for no other reason than that 1" barbs are hard to come by, even on McMaster.

As an aside, the discharge of the compressor, the 1/2" SAE, has 3/4"-16 threads.
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Last edited by subzali; 02-15-2012 at 09:33 AM.
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  #56  
Old 02-06-2012, 10:09 AM
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Did some playing around in AutoCAD this morning. Kilby sells an inlet filter that has a 1/2" MNPT connection. I think this would be a pretty clean combo: 5/8" SAE swivel fitting, then a 5/8" male SAE-1/2" FNPT 90 degree elbow. Easy.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 02-15-2012 at 09:34 AM.
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  #57  
Old 02-06-2012, 06:36 PM
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Default 1/4" or 3/8"?

So I was looking at hoses and chucks tonight at the hardware store. Should I go with 1/4" or 3/8"? The discharge is 1/2", most filters/coalescers that I've seen are 3/8" NPT, most manifolds are 3/8" NPT, but it seems that 1/4" hoses and chucks are more common? They are certainly cheaper. But to start with 1/2" and get all the way down to 1/4" seems like, well, kinda wasting the ability of the compressor. Maybe my compressor is overkill?

Not to say I can't do it - it just uses more fittings than I was hoping for.
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD

Last edited by subzali; 02-15-2012 at 06:40 PM.
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  #58  
Old 02-06-2012, 06:57 PM
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The schrader valve and the air chuck will present a larger flow restriction than 30 ft of 1/4 id hose. The lightweight hose coils and stores much more easily than the larger diameter stuff. I'd go with the lighter stuff.
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  #59  
Old 02-06-2012, 08:28 PM
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speaking of coils - should I get the pre-coiled hose? It seems like if it gets stretched out then it's trying to twist around and you have to hold it in place, whereas a "normal" hose wouldn't do that. 25 ft enough?
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1977 FJ40 2F "Brahma" + Lockright, tach, Warn 8274, FJ60 Power Steering, soon to lose the Sanden OBA to go back to factory emissions
1996 FZJ80 1FZ-FE factory lockers + Safari Turbo , CDL switch, cup holder, AATLAS1X leather, heated seats and JDM switches
2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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  #60  
Old 02-06-2012, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
speaking of coils - should I get the pre-coiled hose? It seems like if it gets stretched out then it's trying to twist around and you have to hold it in place, whereas a "normal" hose wouldn't do that. 25 ft enough?
You'll hate this answer! The cheap arse "yellow" coils suck! They kink and when cold they break. The high grade coils you get from truck supply shops are good. (Ige is a good source!) The hoses from Powertank and Ultimate are really good but pricey! If you use regular air hose avoid the plastic crap as It is a pain in the winter and it wears out pretty quickly.
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