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  #91  
Old 02-14-2012, 08:35 AM
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Um, yes I am adding a pressure switch (did you miss post #26?) and a relief valve. Sorry I didn't understand what you were asking earlier UB in post #70. My pressure switch goes between 110 and 150 and I can get a 150 relief valve.
I looked at my pressure switch again, it runs to 150 psi, so I need to get a little higher rated relief valve I guess. Kilby has one for 185 psi.

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Matt, How's the OBA coming? Better wrap this project up soon. Because, once the baby arrives you will never got to work on anything fun ever again.
It's going to be done by April, one way or another. I have to make a purchase of the standard components soon (manifold, pressure gauge, relief valve, hose, chuck, etc.). I'm still doing some headscratching on the fittings from the compressor, trying to figure out exactly what I want to do.
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  #92  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:36 PM
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I used a 185 psi valve from kilby I think. Also, i got an adjustable pressure switch so I could turn it down for lockers or up for big air. I have ended up leaving it at about 100 psi for the lockers and airing up. it seems to work fine.

Have you thought about drilling out the head and tapping it to accept pipe threads? that's what I did and it works really well.
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  #93  
Old 02-14-2012, 01:41 PM
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I used a 185 psi valve from kilby I think. Also, i got an adjustable pressure switch so I could turn it down for lockers or up for big air. I have ended up leaving it at about 100 psi for the lockers and airing up. it seems to work fine.

Have you thought about drilling out the head and tapping it to accept pipe threads? that's what I did and it works really well.
Ditto! I shut off at 105 and on at 85. I also drilled out and tapped the ports for NPT fittings. I also use high pressure/high temp hose and AN fittings. Plumbing through the frame is all sweat soldered 1/4" copper with flex lines at any point of movement.
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  #94  
Old 02-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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Interesting though, if I go for a tank (from Kilby anyway), they have a MAWP of 150 psi. So the 185 psi relief valve is no bueno.
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/tanks.htm

I have thought about how to tap the head for alternate threads. Haven't been able to figure out a good solution yet.

I still think I have the 45 degree flare (SAE) on this compressor. The -AN fittings are 37 degree flare. I don't know how to tell exactly what I have, some research I've done says that OEM applications didn't come with -AN, only SAE. You can go from SAE to NPT and back to -AN, but not directly from SAE to -AN. Most of the stuff you can buy from Jegs, Summit, etc. are -AN. Which makes me wonder why did Jegs, Summit, etc. settle on -AN if indeed OEM applications didn't use -AN? It doesn't make any sense.

Another thing, is that both SAE and -AN are tubing based, whereas NPT is obviously pipe based. And all this stuff is limited to about 5/8" or 3/4" sizes on the large end, you don't really see anything larger than that. So the options are somewhat limited depending on what you're trying to do.

sigh.

I'll just throw something together and if it leaks I'll know I made the wrong choice and I'll have to go back and fix it

In all reality, I think I do have a plan though
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  #95  
Old 02-14-2012, 03:19 PM
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You can get all the relief valving you need at Grainger, including an adjustable one and also any kind of this-to-that adapter you need for NPT, flare, whatever.
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  #96  
Old 02-14-2012, 03:23 PM
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Yeah, the pressure relief valve is there to keep things from exploding not to keep the system below a working pressure. the pressure switch should keep it below the working pressure.

Pretty sure that a tank rated at 140PSI is gonna be OK to 185.

SAE and AN flares are not the same as you've discovered. AN fittings were developed for the aero space industry specifically to have a low tightening torque for a good seal, and to be simple. Not sure why they departed from the SAE specs for the flare, but the aftermarket picked it all up since it is a very easy to work with system that works well with automotive fluids and supports customization. I bet a wikipedia search would answer the question better.

I'd bet a whole lot of money that anything stock is not going to have a flare that is compatible with a AN flare.

Anyways, they make nice 3/8"NPT to AN adapters that you could use if you wanted to. I used 3/8" NPT fittings and a leader hose from Kilby I think that had 3/8" pipe threads on it.

I bet you could find adapters from and AC place to take the SAE fitting to anything you want probably.

actually here:

http://www.godmanhiperformance.com/i...hp?group_id=17
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  #97  
Old 02-14-2012, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subzali View Post
Interesting though, if I go for a tank (from Kilby anyway), they have a MAWP of 150 psi. So the 185 psi relief valve is no bueno.
http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/tanks.htm

I have thought about how to tap the head for alternate threads. Haven't been able to figure out a good solution yet.

I still think I have the 45 degree flare (SAE) on this compressor. The -AN fittings are 37 degree flare. I don't know how to tell exactly what I have, some research I've done says that OEM applications didn't come with -AN, only SAE. You can go from SAE to NPT and back to -AN, but not directly from SAE to -AN. Most of the stuff you can buy from Jegs, Summit, etc. are -AN. Which makes me wonder why did Jegs, Summit, etc. settle on -AN if indeed OEM applications didn't use -AN? It doesn't make any sense.

Another thing, is that both SAE and -AN are tubing based, whereas NPT is obviously pipe based. And all this stuff is limited to about 5/8" or 3/4" sizes on the large end, you don't really see anything larger than that. So the options are somewhat limited depending on what you're trying to do.

sigh.

I'll just throw something together and if it leaks I'll know I made the wrong choice and I'll have to go back and fix it

In all reality, I think I do have a plan though

-AN is an after market industry standard size. Most likely because there are no half sizes. -AN is all increments of 1/16" (-4AN = 4/16 or 1/4") You can adapt to both NPT and MPT.
Here is a pic of my ND compressor in WR. The hoses and fittings here are -6AN with the pipe thread being 1/4 NPT. AN fittings range from 2 to 16. Adapters can be had even for 1 1/2" radiator hose
to -16AN fittings.
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I need an FJ40....
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Cruisers are superior

Last edited by Uncle Ben; 02-14-2012 at 04:08 PM.
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  #98  
Old 02-15-2012, 09:56 AM
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UB, is that the stock ND compressor that came with the 3.4?

My AC system has a slow leak in the condenser... and being lazy... and having an open vehicle in the summer anyway... and now living at 8K feet and almost never driving in town... I just have not bothered to fix it. I have a perfectly good, reman ND compressor occupying space in the engine bay.

Care to post up YOUR system in more detail?
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  #99  
Old 02-15-2012, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
UB, is that the stock ND compressor that came with the 3.4?

My AC system has a slow leak in the condenser... and being lazy... and having an open vehicle in the summer anyway... and now living at 8K feet and almost never driving in town... I just have not bothered to fix it. I have a perfectly good, reman ND compressor occupying space in the engine bay.

Care to post up YOUR system in more detail?
It is. I have used ND's on WR for years. Very simple set up. I use an oiler mounted high up with the filter on the intake side. (with a 50/50 mix of Marvel Mystery oil and slick 50) I have a mainifold on the drivers firewall that has the safety pop off, the pressure switch and the in line dryer recollecting the compressor lube and condensation. A tee right after that for the ARB solenoid. Then a ball valve for shutting down the storage tank. the line goes through the drivers side frame rail to the back where I have a 3 gallon tank mounted upside down to my floor. The access quick disconnect and gauge are right at my rear cage leg. Very simple and has worked for the last 15+ years. I have gone through three ND compressors in that time and none since I use the Mystery oil/slick 50 juice. It powers my old 1/2" impact gun I keep in the truck fantastically and has tightened many a loose pinion nut on the trail along with countless lug nuts! When wheeling my comp is switch on and I forget it. The only time I notice something up is if my front locker isn't working. Used ND comps put out around 10CFM and are usually $50 bucks at the yards or cheaper if you snag then from folks tossing them.
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I need an FJ40....
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Cruisers are superior
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  #100  
Old 02-15-2012, 06:08 PM
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Okay, I should have been studying or doing taxes tonight, but I wasn't. Went to look at my mounting options for various things, and went and bought some more pieces and parts. Need to make a purchase from Kilby soon, but their website was down a while ago...

First I wanted to get an idea of hose routing, so I looked for interference, and generally to see how much room I had. And I know there's a lot to make fun of under the hood here, but it's a work in progress

And for those of you that don't like my power wire to the compressor, well I don't know how to help you. Toyota used bullet connectors in the engine bay from the factory, so I don't see the problem I'll put some wire loom around it when I commission the system
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2000 Tundra Limited TRD 2UZ-FE SOLD
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