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  #11  
Old 03-19-2012, 12:12 PM
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Dave what does NO and NC mean.. not open and not closed?


Bill I have a switch for that- the on/off switch next to the starter button will kill all lighting, and makes all lighting completely optional. Another reason for going this route.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:20 PM
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Normally Open, Normally Closed.

When the relay coil is not energized, terminal 87A is connected to 30. When you power the relay coil, terminal 87 connects to 30 and 87A opens. This is why it's known as a SPDT, Single Pole, Double Throw. 'Normally' is a term to describe the relay in it's unpowered configuration, think of it as the resting state.

As an on/off (relay #1), you use hot to 30 and switched load to 87.

Connect 87 on relay #1 to 30 on relay #2.

As a high/low (relay #2), you put low beam on 87A and high beam on 87.

Or in your described system, you would just use terminal 30 to the kill-switched lighting and your switch would toggle between high-low rather than on-off.

Substitute AUX Light for low and FLUSHMOUNT for high beam.
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Old 03-19-2012, 12:38 PM
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Nak, you really don't want to run it off your batt. AMHIK.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Chili View Post
Nak, you really don't want to run it off your batt. AMHIK.
What downside am I not considering? I want to have full control- lights on when the bike isn't, lights off when the bike is, or both on/both off. If I leave my lights on and my battery dies I deserved that. what else is there?




Dave back on the relay thing... I haven't been around since 1962 so am a little slow perhaps. Is the benefit of the second relay so I don't need to run 35w through the switch?

It's an either/or between 87 and 87a, correct? Power to 85 flips it between those.. so my handlebar switch high beam wire is going to trip #85, and I just wouldn't hook up the low beam, is that what you're saying? Resulting in default low beam, switched hi beam. But both are off with relay #1 being switched off. Ok I think I get it now..
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Dave back on the relay thing... I haven't been around since 1962 so am a little slow perhaps. Is the benefit of the second relay so I don't need to run 35w through the switch?

It's an either/or between 87 and 87a, correct? Power to 85 flips it between those.. so my handlebar switch high beam wire is going to trip #85, and I just wouldn't hook up the low beam, is that what you're saying? Resulting in default low beam, switched hi beam. But both are off with relay #1 being switched off. Ok I think I get it now..
Yes. You have a kill switch and the second relay (e.g. #1 in the description) is there so that you do not switch high current directly.

You have it right, what's on terminal 30 goes to 87 or 87A depending on the state of the coil. So you have a high beam switch that when off gives you low beam and when on selects high beam. It toggles between the two.

Remember relays are electroMECHANICAL devices, so they do things mechanically that are reactions to electrical changes. Energize the coil and you overcome a spring, which reacts oppositely when you de-energize the coil.

I can add that if you wanted, it would not be difficult to wire this so that you can use a momentary switch (e.g. push to switch to high, push again to switch back to low) that also resets to low beam when the power is removed.
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:53 PM
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Right, my on/off relay #1 will get a trigger from my on/off switch on the handlebars. Won't be from the kill switch though, more than likely the horn- just something that's off when the switch is off, and +12v when the switch is on.

Only downside to this is the "low" position on the headlight control really won't do anything- but then again I'd never have to flip it to off either for that matter. It'll be in low all the time, in both off and low, but then switch to hi when I switch to hi. I guess I could make low switch on some lower power thing that I wouldn't mind running through the switch, and being disabled with hi beams..
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Old 03-19-2012, 06:11 PM
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you could wire it so that the power from the stator energizes the relay. that way it would only light the lights if you had a charge. keep the lights wired to the battery.

nice thing about our bikes is we have kick starts and they aren't 600cc's so if the battery dies it's not THAT big of a deal. also a 100w stator is gonna charge the battery pretty quick.

I liked having the lights wired so they'd run even if the motor was off though, helps with a night time situation where you need to dismount, shut the motor off to talk and find your way type of thing. nice when your flash light is buried in the pack and yo ustill need light.
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2012, 07:05 PM
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Just wondering out loud, would there ever be the situation you'd want the opposite (lights off at night)? Personally I'd like to have control over them, I'm not a big fan of daytime running lights in cars for example. Pulling into a commercial campground at night I like being able to go with just running lights if I can to not disturb other campers.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:39 PM
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It's like a center diff in an awd vehicle- you want every option available to you, not just low range.

What if you shut your bike off at dusk/almost dark to let some hikers walk by... the lights might be nice.

What if you wanted to idle outside work at night while you ran back in to get your phone... No lights might be nice.

And sure, high speed getaways under cover of darkness is always a plus!

what if you dropped your headlamp over by your tent- yeah a quick light from the bike is fast& easy, but no need to wake the camp
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Old 03-19-2012, 09:52 PM
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My lighting is AC. The voltage regulator makes DC to charge the battery to run the starter. The DC circuit has the odometer computer, the horn and the cooling fan as well. I can't run my lights with the motor off, but I also can't forget to turn something off and kill the battery. I do have a switch on the headlight so I can turn it off so the charging system can be dedicated to topping the battery or running the cooling fan.

I didn't bother with a headlight relay. I recently went from a 34watt H4 bulb to a 55watt H4 bulb. It should draw about 4.5 amps if the AC is around 12V. I think the switches are up to it. I actually have two switches: an on/off and a high/low. The 55watt is noticeably brighter than the 35w was. My reflector and lens is def' not a high performance setup but works for now.

Whatever you end up doing, make sure the connections are solid. They will get wet, dusty and be subjected to a lot of vibration. Low cost relays may cut the reliability of the system. Keep it simple so it is sure to function when you need it.
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