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  #21  
Old 03-20-2012, 02:16 PM
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Ooo, looking for TrailTech on YouTube and stumbled across this. This works...

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  #22  
Old 03-21-2012, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
I didn't bother with a headlight relay. I recently went from a 34watt H4 bulb to a 55watt H4 bulb. It should draw about 4.5 amps if the AC is around 12V. I think the switches are up to it. I actually have two switches: an on/off and a high/low. The 55watt is noticeably brighter than the 35w was. My reflector and lens is def' not a high performance setup but works for now.

Whatever you end up doing, make sure the connections are solid. They will get wet, dusty and be subjected to a lot of vibration. Low cost relays may cut the reliability of the system. Keep it simple so it is sure to function when you need it.
So Bruce, IOW you're saying skip the second relay, and just wire the juice through the switch and don't worry about it for a 35w bulb?
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  #23  
Old 03-21-2012, 12:09 PM
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Yes, the relays are overkill. Using a relay to shut off the lights when the bike isn't running makes sense.
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  #24  
Old 03-21-2012, 12:17 PM
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I think this is the one in the Youtube video:
http://www.bajadesigns.com/Products/...NCH_RACELIGHTS
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  #25  
Old 03-21-2012, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
Yes, the relays are overkill. Using a relay to shut off the lights when the bike isn't running makes sense.
Overkill never fails
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  #26  
Old 03-21-2012, 12:37 PM
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The bosch headlight relay on my SAAB failed.
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2012, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60wag View Post
The bosch headlight relay on my SAAB failed.
Did your car melt down when it did? I'll bet it was the coil that failed and not the load contacts. It's a fail safe.
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  #28  
Old 03-21-2012, 02:33 PM
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No, actually the contacts failed. One side works, the other doesn't. It is however easier to replace than the switch.

On the motorcycle, the load is low and the switch can handle it. Why complicate it by adding the additional complexity of the relay?
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  #29  
Old 03-21-2012, 03:00 PM
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IIRC you mentioned your lights run on AC, Nak's run on DC. The ratings are not the same. A 24V/5A AC contact might be 24V/1A with DC. Look, it's no skin off my nose, just offering my $0.02. I am not wrong and neither are you, we just have different experiences forming our opinions.
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  #30  
Old 03-22-2012, 12:43 AM
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Alright I'm stumped. I have poked around that harness all over the place and can't find a switched 12v anywhere. All the ones that are 12v after the handlebar switch is on, are 12v even before the switch is on.. this isn't making sense to me, maybe it's too late...

I did get my new headlight wired up, the horn relocated to make room for it, the relay's working... if I stick the relay wire to the battery I hear it click, then everything works just as it should. But I can't find a switched power feed anywhere on this new harness, meaning I can't get it to come on with the new switch. ugh..
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