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  #21  
Old 07-07-2006, 07:36 AM
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Hey Vic- do you do canvas repairs? I have that old Viking beast, hasn't come too loose yet but it has some tears.
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  #22  
Old 07-07-2006, 06:05 PM
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personally no and we sublet it all outside of the dealership, i can get the info for the place we go to for ya though!
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  #23  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:19 AM
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Question for guys with this coupler thing... How do you hook it up? Do you have to back up and be exactly lined up to the receiver on one end or the other? How many times in and out of the truck does that take?
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  #24  
Old 08-10-2012, 12:20 PM
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I tell people that popup campers are designed like Chrysler products of the 1970s - you need to frequently tighten screws and you're supposed to trade it in every now and then. I hate to image how my '93 Starcraft popup would hold up offroad, based on the damage that happens from vibrations of cross-country trips.
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  #25  
Old 08-10-2012, 01:48 PM
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Completely agree, Steve. In my case I've rebuilt half of the interior anyway, so don't have any issue with adding the occasional drywall screw here and there to make things tight again. I'm in the process though of converting my popup to a toy hauler, and am considering moving past the traditional ball hitch to one of these swivel types, like Lock-N-Roll or similar. http://www.locknroll.com/

But I'm curious how you actually hook it up- with a receiver essentially on both ends, do I have to do some elaborate docking maneuver? Like on Encounter at Farpoint when Riker had to dock to the saucer section manually... I'm not sure my backing skills are up to that, even with the camera.
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  #26  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:34 PM
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Ok I called them and answered my own question. There's a doodad that drops into a thingamajig... so it's similar to a normal hitch in terms of aim, etc. he also confirmed that these are good for 500-600 pounds of tongue weight. Also said he sees a lot of returns on the Adventure trailer hitches, this lock n roll is a superior setup, etc. I think I am going to go for it
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  #27  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:39 PM
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I liked the Multiaxis coupler that Adventure trailers makes. Had it on the trailer I had before the kimberley

http://www.adventuretrailers.com/coupler.html

With a standard trailer you have to get the hitch on the ball. The way I did it with this one and the kimberley hitch (which is similar) is i don't seperate the coupler but get the reciever started in the slot on the truck. There is more room to work with the movement of the coupler.

When I had my camper with the hitch ball, still would have to man handle the trailer a bit getting on the hitch. Still need to do a little of that here. I don't think its any worse and actually easier

You could also seperate the coupler and do it that way.
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  #28  
Old 08-11-2012, 07:09 PM
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im gay
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  #29  
Old 08-11-2012, 08:18 PM
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I helped Paul May hook up his AT once with the coupler. Its not really much harder than a standard ball IMO. I'm considering one for my R/T10 as I hate the ball mount personally.
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  #30  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nakman View Post
Ok I called them and answered my own question. There's a doodad that drops into a thingamajig... so it's similar to a normal hitch in terms of aim, etc. he also confirmed that these are good for 500-600 pounds of tongue weight. Also said he sees a lot of returns on the Adventure trailer hitches, this lock n roll is a superior setup, etc. I think I am going to go for it
Tim, I went with the Max Coupler. I went this route after reading a write up on Expedition Portal about a guy that built up a M416 and bent a lock-n-roll after one outing. This was a couple years back...I think it was Dieselcruiserhead in Utah.

Anyway, I picked up the Max Coupler from Siera 4x4 Trailers for less than from AT. Relatively easy to hook up but it does require a little more alignment than just a ball. In the pics you see the red bushing in the tube...the tube/red bushing slips down between the sides of the end that bolts to your typical ball mount. You have to check this periodically to ensure it is tight enough to not come loose but not so tight that it impedes turning. I think Dave K. has a Max Coupler on his trailer.

If you have a light trailer you can roll the trailer up to the truck and install the ball mount into your hitch, or vice versa, or have both ends un-coupled and couple them. Various options.

Here are some links:

http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthr...X-COUPLER-quot

http://www.sierra4x4trailers.com/category/products/

The guy I dealt with back in Aug 2010, assuming he is still there. I paid $225 + shipping

Chris Dickerson
Sierra 4x4 Trailers LLC
1482 Southgate Dr. Unit 109
Gardnerville, NV 89410
775-783-0700

www.Sierra4x4Trailers.com
info@sierra4x4trailers.com
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